We arrived in Amsterdam on day 8 of our Viking River Cruise of the Rhine. My blog posts for this trip have focused mostly on the ports of call and excursions we enjoyed along the way. But before I tell you about Amsterdam, our final port of call, I want to share some photos of ship life on the Viking Kara. Spoiler alert! For those of you who dislike food photos, this post isn’t for you.
Our cabin was small but comfortable. We chose a room on the first deck at water level since it was the least expensive and we thought it would be too chilly to use a veranda in November anyway. If you’re sensitive to noise, I must caution against this option, however, as we could often hear the engine noise. It didn’t bother us too much and the money saved was welcome.
Our first dinner onboard Elvia and Geoff were seated with us for dinner and we enjoyed one another’s company so much, they had dinner with us every evening thereafter and often we had breakfast and lunch together, too.
Elvia, Lori, Heather, Jim, and Geoff
The food was beautifully presented, well-prepared, and delicious. One evening even featured traditional German dishes with entertainment.
The service in the dining room and throughout the ship was superior.
We enjoyed the onboard entertainment including traditional German and French selections as well as the pianist. We were usually the last to leave the dance floor in the evening although it was only 11:00.
Our cruise director, Ria, was knowledgeable and entertaining. We felt fortunate to have enjoyed her expertise on her last cruise with Viking. As a new mom, I think the time away from home was too difficult. Even though we’ve been to Amsterdam numerous times, she gave us excellent advice about the city which we hadn’t heard previously.
This was our second river cruise with Viking and we thoroughly enjoyed our 8 days cruising the Rhine River. When we finished our excursions to the French and German countryside each day, we appreciated returning to our welcoming and comfortable ship where we relaxed, recharged, and readied ourselves for more explorations.
We’ll definitely look for more itineraries with this line in the future.
Brühl, Germany, home of the Brühl Palaces where we booked an optional excursion for the afternoon of the 6th day of our Viking River Cruise of the Rhine, is located just 18 km south of Cologne. After a short bus ride following lunch, we arrived at the Augustusburg Palace, one of the first rococo buildings in Germany. Rococo style, also called Late Baroque, is characterized by elaborate but light and airy ornamentation and pastel colors. Constructed beginning in 1725, the summer palace was a favorite residence of Clemens Augustus, Archbishop-Elector of Cologne. The palace took over 40 years to complete partly because Clemens Augustus’s brother didn’t think the first version was good enough so the palace designed by a German architect was completely demolished and construction commenced again under a French architect. Today, Augustustburg Palace, the formal gardens, and nearby Falkenlust Hunting Lodge comprise the UNESCO World Heritage site called the Brühl Palaces.
Augustusburg Palace
Unfortunately, photography wasn’t allowed inside the palaces so I can’t show you the jaw-droppingly lavish interiors. You can see several images, however, if you click on this link to the official website and then click on the photos in the picture gallery. Be sure to notice the magnificent marble staircase which is especially impressive.
The outside photos will give you an idea of the opulence, however.
Augustusburg Palace
As I looked at the interior of the palace and the surrounding formal gardens, I was reminded of Versailles which was built several years earlier in the ornate Baroque style, albeit on an even grander scale. After all, Versailles boasts 700 rooms whereas Augustusburg has only 120.
Gardens at Augustusburg Palace
As you can see, the fountains weren’t operational in November but the gardens impressed us nevertheless.
Augustusburg Gardens
Augustusburg Palace
Jim and I at Augustusburg Palace
Lake at Augustusburg Palace
I was fascinated by a colorful duck swimming serenely on the lake and, after some research, discovered it was a Mandarin duck. They are native to China and Japan but prolific in Britain due to their importation in the 18th century. More recently, rogue Mandarins have escaped and can be found in Germany and in other forested habitats as far away as California.
Mandarin duck
The orbs of foliage I spotted in the trees were even more intriguing. When I pointed them out to Jim, he claimed it was mistletoe which our guide subsequently confirmed. Mistletoe is actually a parasite that attaches to the host and literally sucks the life out of it. It’s very difficult to eradicate which, considering the abundance we saw, was quite alarming.
Trees invaded by mistletoe
A quick kiss under the mistletoe (Jim thinks this is a terrible photo but I kind of like it)
I call this the juxtaposition of simplicity and extravagance
Although the hunting lodge, Falkenlust, is within walking distance, the tour bus delivered us directly to the gate. Too bad, as it would have been a lovely stroll through the woods. The hunting lodge wouldn’t have required visitors to rough it whatsoever. Take a peek inside here. The over 9000 hand-made Delft tiles surrounding the circular staircase were a definite highlight.
Just a small hunting shack in the forest
The roadway from the hunting lodge
A small building behind the hunting lodge wasn’t open to the public but I did take a few photos through the windows of the renovations occurring inside.
Work underway at the building behind Falkenlust
If you’re in Cologne, take the time to visit the Brühl Palaces. As the first examples of rococo architecture in Germany, their historical importance is unquestionable. We were definitely impressed and we enjoyed a pleasant afternoon there.
As we sailed away from Cologne later that evening, Jim captured one last memorable view of Cologne Cathedral.
Cologne Cathedral
And, as we said goodbye to Cologne, we also said goodbye to Germany since our next port the following day would be in the Netherlands.
We arrived in Cologne, Germany in the morning on day 6 of our Viking River Cruise of the Rhine. Cologne is the fourth largest city in Germany and one of the oldest in the country with a history dating as far back as the first century AD when the Romans founded the city naming it Colonia. Our included excursion for this port was a walking tour of the old city which we began soon after our arrival.
Our guide immediately told us over 90% of the Old Town was destroyed by Allied bombing during WWII. We were impressed with the results of reconstruction efforts.
Old Town Cologne
Next to the river, what appeared at first glance to be a clockface turned out to be a depth gauge showing the water level of the river. As you can see below, the depth was under 2 meters which is why we suspected our ship scraped bottom a few times and the ship’s captain expressed concern about the next cruise.
I’ve seen love locks on bridges in other cities including Venice, Italy but the 2 tons of locks on the Hohenzollern Bridge was definitely impressive. The city considered removing them and not allowing this show of commitment but the outcry caused them to reconsider and the tradition continues.
Hohenzollern Bridge
Love Locks on Hohenzollern Bridge
Cologne Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was constructed beginning in 1248 but wasn’t finally completed until 1880. It was the world’s tallest building until 1884 when the Washington Monument displaced it. Today it is still visible from most of the city and I took numerous photographs of both the impressive facade and the interior.
The twin spires as we approach Cologne Cathedral
Cologne Cathedral
Cologne Cathedral
Cologne Cathedral
Below are just a couple of the over 125 gargoyles decorating the exterior of the cathedral.
Gargoyles on Cologne Cathedral
Entrance to Cologne Cathedral
Sculpture at entrance of Cologne Cathedral
Our guide tells us about the cathedral
Cologne Cathedral interior
One of many stained glass windows in Cologne Cathedral
Altarpiece in Cologne Cathedral
Interior of Cologne Cathedral
The cathedral houses the relics of the three Magi, the wise men who brought gifts to the Christ child. Between the late 1100’s and early 1200’s, goldsmith Nicholas of Verdun created The Shrine of the Three Holy Kings which holds the relics.
The Shrine of the Three Holy Kings in Cologne Cathedral
Next door to the Cathedral, we peered in the windows of the Roman-Germanic Museum, built in 1974 over a Roman Villa. The mosaic below depicting the story of Dionysus was discovered when a bomb shelter was built during WWII. Sadly, we didn’t have time to tour the museum.
Mosaic in Roman-Germanic Museum
As our tour moved on, our guide told us about Italian-born perfumier, Giovanni Maria Farina, who created eau de cologne in 1709 and named it for his adopted home. The fragrance featured scents of orange, lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, jasmine, violet, and sandalwood. In a letter to his brother, he wrote, “I have discovered a scent that reminds me of a spring morning in Italy, of mountain narcissus, orange blossom just after the rain. It gives me great refreshment, strengthens my senses and imagination.” You can still purchase the original scent at the perfumery.
Home of Farina Perfumery
Kölsch style ale was also created in Cologne, a hybrid of ale and lager brewing methods, served in a stange glass.
Stange glasses for Kölsch beer
Following our walking tour, we made our way back to the ship for lunch prior to our afternoon excursion to the Brühl Palaces.
Perched high atop a steep hill overlooking the town of Braubach, Marksburg was constructed around 1231 with expansion to its current size in 1283. As the only hilltop castle on the Middle Rhine River which was never destroyed, it’s the best surviving example of a medieval castle in the area. You may recall in my last post I said nearby Pfaltzgrafenstein Castle was never destroyed, which is true, but it’s on the river rather than on a hilltop.
While Marksburg was never destroyed, it did suffer damage from US artillery fire in March 1945, and the castle was painstakingly repaired by the German Castles Association following WWII. Today, it’s the most visited of the Middle Rhine castles, albeit by guided tour only. We were grateful our Viking River Cruise included an excursion to this remarkable fortress.
Town of Braubach, Germany
As our bus climbed the hill to the castle, I tried to get photos and realized the best views were actually from the river but the drive through the amber autumn foliage was gorgeous, nevertheless.
Driving up to the hilltop castle, Marksburg
View of Marksburg from the bus
Following our ascent by bus, we trudged another 150 yards uphill on foot which, for some of us, was challenging right after lunch.
Four gates prevented intruders from breaching the castle. The first is a drawbridge gate followed by a tunnel. The gatekeeper’s room, connected to the tunnel, has been converted to an antique bookshop.
The tunnel at Drawbridge Gate
Antique bookstore in the old gatekeeper’s room
Once inside the first gate, we had time to enjoy the view, visit the restroom or gift shop, or simply catch our breath before the tour commenced.
Catching our breath and enjoying the view
The tour began at the second gateway, Fox Gate, where we followed our guide who possessed a large skeleton key to allow us through the third medieval gateway, Arrow Slit Gate. I understand the fourth gateway in Stewards Tower was altered sometime in the past. To my knowledge, we didn’t see it or, maybe I simply missed it.
Our guide with the key to the kingdom
Arrow Slit Gate features a machicolation, a projection from which defenders threw rocks on the intruders below. I’ve circled the machicolation on the photo. Fortunately for us, no one seemed to be on rock-throwing duty that day.
The Rider’s Stairway continued the upward ascent on stairs carved into the bedrock. I was beginning to understand why the cruise line described this excursion as physically demanding.
Rider’s Stairway
At the top of Rider’s Stairway, our guide told us about the various owners of the castle who were all represented by their coats of arms.
Coats of arms of Marksburg owners
The small blacksmith’s workshop gave us an idea of how a medieval forge and anvil would have looked.
Blacksmith’s workshop
The Romanesque Palas is the oldest part of the castle. It houses offices and the general manager’s apartment and is not open to the public.
Romanesque Palas
The Great Battery houses cannons overlooking the Rhine River. From this vantage point, the castle controlled access from the river. This building dates from 1589 and 1711.
The Great Battery
Finally, at the top, we paused once more for a look at the view which was quite spectacular.
View from Marksburg
Before entering the castle, our guide told us about the garden which contained around 150 mostly medicinal plants that would have grown here in medieval times. Poisonous nightshade and hemlock were also grown —maybe to battle enemies inside the castle?
Castle garden
When we heard how the contents of the castle toilet ran down the wall in the photo below, I realized castle life wasn’t all that romantic.
Castle toilet
Still imagining the odors from the toilet when we entered the wine cellar, I decided I’d have needed more wine to cope with life in the Middle Ages.
Wine cellar in Marksburg
Moving on to the kitchen, we heard servants would have worked in this space and served the noble family in the hall upstairs.
Kitchen
Kitchen
Like the toilet, this sink also obviously emptied along the outside castle wall.
The paneled bedchamber contained a canopied bed, a cradle, and a sitting area. The canopy provided both privacy and warmth for the lord and his lady.
Bedchamber
And we got to see the toilet from the inside, too.
Toilet
A combination of living and dining room, most of the noble family’s activities took place in the Great Hall. Musical instruments and a chess set in this area indicated some of the available entertainment options.
The Great Hall
The exquisitely painted 14th-century chapel was used by the noble family for daily devotions and services.
The chapel
After our visit to the chapel, we took a narrow stairway to the next floor where we saw the Gimbel Collection, consisting of both original and replicas of armor and weaponry from ancient to early modern times.
The Gimbel Collection
Work in process in the Gimbel Collection
Our final stop inside the castle was in the former stable which today houses a gruesome exhibit on torture and punishment in the Middle Ages.
Torture and punishment exhibit
As I pondered the sights we’d seen at Marksburg on our return bus ride to the Viking Kara, we passed by the Electoral Palace at Koblenz, built in the late 18th century. I concluded castle life in the Middle Ages with its privation, hardship, and disagreeable odors was not all that romantic. I think I’d prefer to live in a palace.
The Upper Middle Rhine Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located on the 65 km (40mi) stretch of river between Bingen and Koblenz, Germany, boasts more than 40 castles. If you, like me, are fascinated by these romantic fortresses, be sure to book one of the day river cruises because the best views are from the river. We, fortunately, cruised through the region on our Viking River Cruise of the Rhine River while we enjoyed an outstanding narration by our cruise director, Ria.
The morning of November 2 was quite chilly but luckily, the sky was cloudless. We’d brought plenty of warm clothing so we bundled up and claimed a spot on the upper deck where the cruise line provided chairs with blankets and hot drinks (alcohol included) to ensure our comfort. Many passengers preferred to stay inside where it was warm but I was intent on getting the best photos possible without window glare.
Dressed for the weather
We didn’t have to fight for a seat
Jim enjoying the view and a hot drink
The Rhine has been a major waterway used to transport goods between southern and northern Europe since Roman times. As such, opportunities to make money abounded whether by transporting goods, robbing those who transported goods or protecting those who transported goods. As a result, numerous castles sprang up along the river. Some were home to robber knights who preyed on merchant ships and others provided protection for and exacted tolls from those using the waterway.
I purchased a booklet entitled, The Castles of the Rhine, from which I garnered some of the details below in addition to the information Ria shared. I tried to show how the castles looked from the river rather than close up with a telephoto lens and the photos below are in the order we saw the castles.
Originally called Vogtsberg, Rheinstein Castle was built in the early 1300’s but an earlier fortress likely preceded its presence on this site. Its purpose was to provide protection from robber knights attacking from nearby Reichenstein Castle. Today it is restored and open to the public.
Rheinstein Castle
Constructed in the early 11th century, Reichenstein Castle was home to generations of robber knights. Rudolf von Habsburg, who was elected king in 1273, besieged the castle in 1282, finally forcing its surrender through starvation. The castle was burned down and later rebuilt in spite of Rudolf’s orders to the contrary. Today, guests can explore this history and more with a visit to the castle and its museum and even book a stay at the hotel and dine at the onsite restaurant.
Reichenstein Castle
Nearby Sooneck Castle, constructed in the 11th century and named for Soon Forest, was also a robber knight castle which Rudolf besieged along with Reichenstein in 1282 and, although rebuilding was likewise forbidden, it was rebuilt in 1349. Today, it is also open to the public.
Sooneck Castle
Some of the castles like Furstenberg are ruins but the surrounding vineyard is still under cultivation.
Furstenberg Castle ruin
Stahleck Castle was built around 1100. In 1194, it was the location of the secret Stahleck Marriage of Agnes and Henry the Elder of Brunswick whose families were feuding. Legend has it when the couple produced a grandchild, the family reconciled. The castle was destroyed by the French in 1689 and restored in the early 20th century. Today it houses a youth hostel.
Stahleck Castle
Built on the river specifically to collect shipping tolls in the early 14th century, Pfalzgrafenstein Castle has never been destroyed which is quite a distinction. The water level in the river was abnormally low when we visited but the castle normally appears to float on the water. The appearance led the French poet, Victor Hugo, to memorialize the castle when he described it as, “A ship of stone, eternally afloat upon the Rhine…” The castle is open for tours.
Pfalzgrafenstein Castle
Gutenfels Castle was constructed beginning in 1200. I thought this castle was especially picturesque with the vineyard on the hillside and the town of Sankt Goar on the bank of the Rhine below. Today the castle is private property.
Gutenfels Castle
Documentation of Schonburg Castle goes back to the 12th century but its roots may go back as far as the Roman occupation in the 3rd century. According to the castle’s website, this was one of the few castles where all sons inherited rather than following the system of primogeniture. Consequently, in the 14th century 24 families and up to 250 people lived there at the same time but, interestingly, by 1719, the line of succession completely died out. Today, this castle also features a hotel and restaurant.
Schonberg Castle
As we passed the Loreley, a 433 ft (132 m) high slate rock, our cruise director, Ria, explained this section of the Upper Middle Rhine is particularly treacherous because it’s deep, narrow, and curvy with strong currents which have resulted in numerous accidents and shipwrecks through the years.
Loreley
The currents combined with an echo produced by the rock create a murmur which inspired a German folk-tale about a siren named Lorelei. When jilted by her lover, Lorelei threw herself into the Rhine and her spirit has since lured fishermen to destruction when they heard her singing as she sat above them on the rock combing her long blond locks. A poem about Lorelei by Heinrich Heine in 1824 has been set to music by over 25 composers. You can read a translation of the poem below.
Lorelei
By Heinrich Heine
Translated by A.Z. Foreman
I know not if there is a reason
Why I am so sad at heart.
A legend of bygone ages
Haunts me and will not depart.
The air is cool under nightfall.
The calm Rhine courses its way.
The peak of the mountain is sparkling
With evening’s final ray.
The fairest of maidens is sitting
So marvelous up there,
Her golden jewels are shining,
She’s combing her golden hair.
She combs with a comb also golden,
And sings a song as well
Whose melody binds a wondrous
And overpowering spell.
In his little boat, the boatman
Is seized with a savage woe,
He’d rather look up at the mountain
Than down at the rocks below.
I think that the waves will devour
The boatman and boat as one;
And this by her song’s sheer power
Fair Lorelei has done.
Sculpture of Lorelei on the Rhine
Built by Count Wilhelm II around 1371, Napolean ordered Katz Castle blown up in 1806. It was restored in 1896 and today is privately owned and not open to visitors.
Katz Castle
Jim and I with another view of Katz Castle
Once the largest castle on the Rhine, Rheinfels Castle was constructed in 1245. The French blew up the castle in 1797 and, although it has been a ruin ever since, it is open to the public with a hotel, restaurant, and museum on site.
Rheinfels Castle
Maus Castle (Mouse Castle), built in 1356, is located north of Katz Castle (Cat Castle).
Maus Castle
We were fortunate to view Marksburg Castle from the river and then later tour the castle. This is how I know, without a doubt, the best views are from the river which you’ll understand when you read my next post. I’ll save details for later.
Marksburg Castle
Stolzenfels Castle, built in 1248, was taken by the Swedish in 1632, occupied by the French in 1634-36, and burned by the French in 1688. The City of Koblenz gifted the ruin to King Friedrich Wilhelm IV in 1823, who had it restored and used it as a summer residence. It’s open and offers tours to the public.
Stolzenfels Castle
Honestly, by the time we arrived in Koblenz, our early enthusiasm was beginning to wane due to a surfeit of castles on the Rhine. Thankfully, we had the opportunity to recharge while we enjoyed another delicious lunch on the Viking Kara before our afternoon tour of Marksburg Castle. Join me next time on our tour.
We awoke on Day 3 of our Viking River Cruise of the Rhine at Mannheim, Germany. Although we spent no time touring Mannheim, here are a few fun facts we learned about the city. The #1 Christmas artist, Mannheim Steamroller, is named for the home of Mozart but the band actually hails from Omaha, Nebraska. Mannheim Steamroller refers to an 18th-century musical technique called the Mannheim roller which is a version of a crescendo that originated here.
Mannheim was the starting point of the first long-distance automobile journey in August 1888 in a car built by Karl Benz and driven by his wife, Bertha Benz. Accompanied by her two sons, Bertha decided to do a test drive from Mannheim to Pforzheim to visit her mother. As the story goes, she left a note for her husband telling him about the visit but not their mode of transportation. When he awoke and found the motor car missing, he realized they hadn’t taken the train. The 60-mile trip took all day with plenty of challenges and local attention along the way. Several days later, they returned by a different route ensuring even more witnesses to the adventure. You can read more about this courageous woman who was ahead of her time here. Today, her trip is memorialized by the Bertha Benz Memorial Route and I’m sure you’ve heard of the company, Mercedes-Benz.
Last but not least, we observed Mannheim is also home to a John Deere plant, maker of the ubiquitous green and yellow farm equipment often spotted on the landscape at home in Iowa. We also have John Deere plants in Waterloo and Ankeny, Iowa and the company’s international headquarters is located in nearby Moline, Illinois.
John Deere, Mannheim, Germany
Following breakfast, rather than exploring Mannheim, we boarded a bus for an included shore excursion to Heidelberg, Germany just 11 miles (18 km) away. We traveled directly to the ruins of Heidelberg Castle, one of the most romantic and famous ruins in Germany.
View of Heidelberg from the grounds of the castle
As we climbed the hill from the parking lot, our guide led the way and told us about the history of the castle. Originally built as a fortress overlooking the Neckar River and the town of Heidelberg, the castle rose to prominence when the Counts Palatine of the Rhine, later called the Prince-Electors, took up residence. The Palatinate is a region in Germany in the southwest where the most powerful Counts (later called electors) elected the Holy Roman Emperor as established by the Golden Bull of 1356. The Prince-Electors left their mark on the castle as they transformed it from a fortress to a sumptuous palace fit for princes.
View from Heidelberg Castle
Panoramic view from the castle
Heidelberg Castle
Heidelberg Castle
Built in 1615 in just one night by Elector Kurfurst Friedrich in honor of his wife’s birthday, Elisabethentor is a beautiful gate on the grounds of the castle.
Elisabethentor
Ottenrichsbau was constructed by Elector Ottenrich during his rule from 1556-1559 but the building wasn’t completed until 10 years later by his successor. The building is an outstanding example of German Renaissance architecture. The roof was damaged by the French in an attack in 1693 and destroyed by lightning in 1764 which is why you can see the sky through the windows. A roof was added to the first level in the 20th century, however.
Ottheinrichsbau
Ottheinrichsbau
Friedrichsbrau was built in the 17th century by Elector Friedrich IV. In the niches between the windows are statues of the Electors who ruled from 915 to 1803.
Friedrichsbrau
How the castle appeared in 1683
The Barrel Building (Fassbau) was constructed at the end of the 16th century with a giant barrel built into the cellar which held 58,000 gallons of wine collected as taxes from citizens of the Palatinate.
Giant barrel at Heidelberg Castle with our tour guide
A dwarf court jester by the nick-name of Perkeo entertained the court beginning in 1718. A wooden figure of him holding a glass of wine still graces the Barrel Building today.
Perkeo
Visitors can enjoy a glass of wine with him at the on-site wine bar, Perkeo’s Vinothek.
Perkeo’s Vinothek
After a final look, we headed back down the hill for our walking tour of Heidelberg.
Heidelberg Castle
At the bottom of the hill, I took a quick photo of the oldest and most modern funicular railway in Germany which you can ride up to the castle.
The Allstadt or Old Town, is located just below the castle. As our guide led us there, he told us about Heidelberg University, founded in 1386, which is the oldest university in Germany. Unruly students were punished by time spent in a student jail but were still required to attend lectures so as not to encourage bad behavior. After a student was released, he rushed to the student tavern to regale his compatriots with the tale of his incarceration. The historic student tavern, Zum Seppl, is today part of the Heidelberger Kulturbrauerei pictured below.
Heidelberger Kulturbrauerei
Our guide left us in Market Square where we explored on our own until we found our way to the bus for our return to the ship. The Church of the Holy Spirit stands in the middle of Market Square so, of course, we were drawn to take a look. The largest Protestant church in Heidelberg, the Church of the Holy Spirit was built beginning in 1398 as the burial place for the Electors of the Palatinate. This church was the birthplace of the Heidelberg Catechism written in 1563.
Church of the Holy Spirit
Interior of the Church of the Holy Spirit
Outside, I was intrigued by the PETA supporters and snapped the photo below.
Sisters for PETA
Old Town never fails to interest me even if present day additions like the sign imploring us to “eat fresh” at Subway distracts from the charm.
Shopping in Heidelberg
In our rambling, we found the Jesuit Church which was constructed in baroque style beginning in 1712.
Jesuit Church
Interior of Jesuit Church
Finally, we decided to do what the students in Heidelberg do and sat with our friends at a cafe in Market Square for coffee and conversation.
Enjoying a coffee with Jim, Lori, Heather, Jeff, and Elvia
As we made our way to the river, I couldn’t help but take one more photo of the castle which was visible above the town everywhere we went.
View of the castle from town
The Old Bridge, built in 1788, is the ninth structure across the River Neckar. The predecessors were all destroyed in the spring by ice flows until this one was contructed completely of stone.
The Old Bridge
Jim and me on the River Neckar, Heidelberg, Germany
Although we spent only 5 hours in Heidelberg and barely scratched the surface, I understand why this city is a tourist favorite in Germany. It is steeped in history, unscathed by WWII, and bursting with the youthful vigor of nearly 30,000 students.
As I mentioned in my last post, the stork holds a special place in the hearts of Alsatians. The large white bird with black tipped wings has been commonplace in this region for millennia giving rise to various local folk tales. You’re probably familiar with the legend of the stork delivering babies, but you, like me, may not know much beyond that. Danish writer Hans Christian Andersen first popularized the fairy tale with his story, The Storks, a rather gruesome tale which I wouldn’t share with children. (Click on the title to read the story.) According to our tour guide, babies are retrieved from under the marshes by storks who deliver them to the home. Another Alsatian folk tale says if a child wants a baby brother or sister, they leave a sugar cube on the windowsill to attract a stork to leave a baby.
Storks long returned to Alsace for the warm months signifying the arrival of spring after wintering as far away as Africa. In the 1970’s, however, the population decreased to only a few remaining pairs. A number of environmental conditions threatened the population but our guide cited electrocution by flying into high voltage electrical wires as one of the main causes. In 1983, France initiated a successful repopulation program resulting in around 600 pairs nesting in the Alsace region today.
Capitalizing on their presence, the symbol of the stork is ubiquitous in Strasbourg. I understand the birds roam freely in the Parc d’Orangerie but, unfortunately, our tour didn’t take us there.
Stork mural in Strasbourg
Every tourist shop sells storks
We did, however, see lots of other sights in Strasbourg. As we arrived, our bus took us past the Palace of Europe, headquarters of the Council of Europe, the leading human rights organization on the continent of Europe with 47 member states.
Palais de L’Europe
French President Emmanuel Macron visited the headquarters that day and delivered a speech at the European Court of Human Rights. Because of his visit, we saw many police officers and military in the vicinity but alas, we didn’t glimpse Macron.
Police officers in Strasbourg
Strasbourg is also the official seat of the European Parliament where laws for the EU are debated and passed. My photo of it is terrible because it was into the sun and the window glare was horrible but you get the idea.
Parliament of Europe
Our guide explained some history of Strasbourg and told us her mother and grandmother changed nationalities 3 times although they never moved from Strasbourg. Strasbourg is the capital of Alsace which today is called the Grand Est region of France. The city is situated near the Rhine River which is the border with Germany. In the Franco-German War (1870-71) Germany annexed Alsace. After WWI, the area was returned to France; it was taken by Germany again in WWII and returned to France after the war. Our guide’s grandmother and mother must have been born after WWI.
From the bus, we spied the Barrage Vauban which is a bridge and a dam, designed by military engineer Sebastien Vauban as part of the city’s fortifications and opened in 1690. Today, it is open to the public and has a terrace on top with great views of the Old Town. If you look closely, you can see people on top.
Barrage Vauban
The nearby covered bridges have retained their name but not their covers. These three bridges cross the River Ill each guarded by a tower and were once part of the 14th-century ramparts.
Covered bridges with two of the towers
Once the bus parked, we commenced our walking tour of Grande Ill, the Big Island, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the historic section of Strasbourg.
View of the steeple of the cathedral from the River Ill
While the buildings weren’t as colorful as those in Colmar, they were nonetheless captivating. The half-timbered buildings in the Petite France neighborhood evoke a medieval atmosphere without the foul stench which would have once permeated the air.
Petit France
We stopped to watch a swinging bridge that once operated by hand but has long been motorized to clear the way for boats passing through. See it operate in the short video below.
Swinging bridge
Then we were treated to an accordion player playing lively French tunes for passersby.
An accordion player in Strasbourg
View from one of many bridges with the Tanners House on the right, today a restaurant
Narrow Rue des Dentelles in the Petite France neighborhood
Dating from the 15th-century, the ornate Kammerzell House is the most famous building in Strasbourg. Once a wealthy merchant’s home, today it houses a fine restaurant.
Kammerzell House
Although Kammerzell House is reputed to be the most famous building in Strasbourg, Notre-Dame Cathedral is the most impressive and awe-inspiring, in my opinion. Construction commenced in 1015 and the spire was finally completed in 1439. The 466 foot (142 m) high building was the tallest in Christendom until the 19th century and a masterpiece of Gothic architecture.
Notre-Dame Cathedral
Statues surrounding the door on the facade of the cathedral
Interior of Cathedral
Interior of Notre-Dame Cathedral
The Rose Window
Rub the dog’s head for luck
Windows in Notre-Dame Cathedral
The case of the well-known astronomical clock of Strasbourg dates from the 16th century but the mechanism was replaced in 1838. It drew a huge crowd to see the mechanism in action but we were too early for the main show. Every day at 12:30, 18-inch tall figures of the Apostles process past Jesus, turning to face him as they pass.
Astronomical clock
Panoramic view of Notre-Dame Cathedral
After our tour, we had free time with instructions to meet in the square outside the cathedral so our guide could lead us back to the bus for our return to our ship, the Viking Kara. I decided to check out a few of the shops on my own while my husband stayed in the square. A few streets away from the cathedral, I found a darling shop featuring foies gras which I decided to purchase for my adult children to enjoy an authentic French treat. Those of you who know me personally may be aware that I have a very poor sense of direction. Feeling pleased with my purchase, I left the shop and promptly turned in the wrong direction. I compounded the problem by changing direction several times to get my bearings which got me hopelessly confused and lost. When I discovered I’d left my credit card at the shop, I was so disoriented and anxious I couldn’t even find my way back to the shop. I finally stood still, took a couple of deep breaths, and walked slowly along the street until I found the shop. By then the shop was packed with shoppers but fortunately, my credit card was on the counter where I’d left it. My relief was palpable as I made my way back to the square.
Foies Gras de Strasbourg
On our return ride to the ship, when I heard Strasbourg hosts the best Christmas Market in Europe, I decided a return visit to this delightful city is in my future.
