All Things Travel

In Bruges at Last

Posted on November 8, 2016 by lclalor

We first visited Belgium in January 2007 with our sons on holiday between college semesters. With an ambitious itinerary, we skipped Bruges and opted for Brussels instead. Even though we ate mussels in Brussels (and horse), when the movie, In Bruges, starring Colin Farrell, came out in 2008, I knew missing Bruges was a big mistake. So when we booked a cruise to Spain, Portugal, and Gibralter sailing out of Rotterdam, Netherlands in April 2016, I saw an opportunity to correct my error. We decided to go early and make a side trip first to Bruges.

We arrived by train late in the afternoon. As we exited the railway station, we looked around for a taxi and after a short wait, we found a ride to our hotel, Ter Brughe. I discovered this historic hotel dating from the 13th century on the internet and I believed it was perfectly situated within walking distance of all the sights we wanted to see. We were not disappointed.

Hotel Ter Brughe on the canal

Lobby at Hotel Ter Brughe

Breakfast room at Hotel Ter Brughe

Breakfast with a canal view

Swans in the canal outside breakfast room

The bar at Hotel Ter Brughe

Pre-dinner drinks at Hotel Ter Brughe

Our first priority after settling into our hotel was to locate dinner. We found Restaurant Bistro de Schilder in a nearby square, and while the waiter wasn’t especially engaging, the food was adequate. Lori and I ordered the white asparagus, a new experience for both of us and quite tasty.

Lori and Rick perusing the menu at Restaurant Bistro de Schilder

Chicken entree ordered by Rick and Jim

White asparagus

Jim and I enjoyed dinner in this charming square in Bruges

Statue of painter Jan Van Eyck in the square where we ate dinner

This was also our first experience with famous Zot beer, made in Bruges. We toured the brewery the following day but Jim and Rick each enjoyed a preview Zot with dinner, while Lori and I stuck with our usual red wine.

Zot beer

After dinner, we set off to find the historic central Market Place where we began our exploration of this unique UNESCO World Heritage site. Bruges (French), or Brugge (Dutch), is a superior example of a well-preserved medieval town. An economic and commercial powerhouse during the middle ages, it retains its Gothic flavor with narrow cobblestone streets and characteristic architecture.

Narrow street leading to the Market Square

Central Market Place in Bruges

Town Hall in Central Market, Bruges

One of many charming shops in Bruges

Central Market, Bruges

Jim in front of the statue of local heroes, Jan Breydal and Pieter de Coninck, in Market Square, Bruges

View from Market Square, Bruges

The best-known building in Bruges is undoubtedly the bell tower, dating from the 13th century. We enthusiastically planned to climb the 366 steps to the top the following morning for a panoramic view of this historic, captivating medieval town.

Bell Tower in Market Square, Bruges

Based on events in April 2016.

Categories: Uncategorized, UNESCO | Tags: Belgium, Bruges, Brugge, Hotel Ter Brughe, Market Sqaure, Zot | 3 Comments

Taking the Scenic Route to Bruges

Posted on November 1, 2016 by lclalor

After our visit to Keukenhof in Lisse, Netherlands, I wanted to take the scenic route to Bruges, Belgium. A train ride through small towns in the bucolic Dutch countryside filled with tulips and windmills appealed to me enormously. Instead, we took the Keukenhof Express back to Schipol Amsterdam Airport and boarded the train to take the fast route to Bruges.

But first, we spent the night in Lisse at the charming Hotel De Duif .

Lisse, Netherlands

Lisse

Hotel De Duif, Lisse

Jim in the lobby at Hotel de Duif

After taking a wrong turn and lugging our bags up the stairs not once but three times, we finally located our room and discovered it occupied two floors; the sitting room and kitchen were downstairs with a bedroom above, so we lugged our bags up one more time. Exhausted by this unexpected strength training after an overnight flight and a full day exploring Keukenhof, we wanted nothing more than dinner and bed asap.

We set off on foot to the main square just a couple blocks away to find a restaurant. Notoriously indecisive when it comes to picking restaurants, we chose Restaurant Den Ouden Heere after the usual amount of hesitation. Always a fan of outdoor seating with heaters, we sat outside with a view of the square. Our friendly and helpful waitress advised us that the special for just 9.50 euros would be a tasty choice and we were pleased with her suggestion.

Restaurant Den Ouden Heere

Kebab, salad, and potatoes at Restaurant Den Ouden Heere

It was early to bed and early to rise for us. The following morning, we enjoyed a tasty buffet breakfast at the hotel before one final walk back to Keukenhof to catch the bus to Schipol.

Breakfast room at Hotel De Duif

Breakfast at Hotel De Duif

Tulip on our breakfast table

Bike trail to Keukenhof

We stopped at the bench below for a photo of a bulb field and farm across the road from Keukenhof.

Scene of the crime

When I clambered onto the bench to get a view above the fence for my photo, a local curmudgeon accused me of having no respect if I would come to their country and stand on the bench. I was embarrassed and apologized profusely while I wiped the spot where I stood on the bench with my hand. Later, however, as Jim and I discussed the event, we decided that outdoor benches are built for sitting, standing, bad weather, bird droppings and a myriad of other events and this fellow was just having a bad day. Every other Dutch person we’ve met has been friendly and hospitable so this experience was unusual, to say the least. It made for a memorable story, however.

We were the only passengers on the double bus back to Schipol and when we arrived, we were astonished to see a huge crowd waiting for the bus’s return trip to Keukenhof. We appreciated the short line to board the bus on the previous day all over again.

Bus ride from Keukenhof to Schipol Amsterdam Airport

Line to board the bus to Keukenhof

We easily located the ticket counter in Schipol for the train to Bruges and headed straightaway to our platform. With hardly any wait at all, we boarded our train and sat back to view the countryside.

Bulb fields from the train

Bucolic countryside in the Netherlands from the train

Greenhouses for bulbs in the Dutch countryside

We switched trains at Rotterdam to head to Bruges via Antwerp. We would return to Rotterdam in two days to board our cruise ship so we looked around to familiarize ourselves with this station.

Platform at Rotterdam

At Antwerp Central Railway Station, amazingly, we encountered our friends, Lori and Rick, who arrived that morning from the U.S. and we had planned to meet that evening at our hotel in Bruges.

We could see why this station is reputed to be one of the most beautiful in Europe and we wholeheartedly agreed. Built at the turn of the 20th century, the glass vaulted ceiling allows light to bathe the stone and marble interior. The overall impression is both historic and majestic. We also felt quite safe with the Belgian military patrolling the station so soon after the March 22nd bombing of the airport in Brussels.

Antwerp Central Railway Station

Railway station at Antwerp with Belgian military in the foreground

When I originally checked train connections, I wanted to avoid backtracking to Schipol in Amsterdam and find connections directly from Lisse to Bruges. When I couldn’t make that work, we settled for connections from Schipol to Rotterdam, Antwerp, and finally Bruges with several stops in smaller towns along the way. In the end, surprisingly, our train journey to Bruges turned out to be the scenic route.

Next time: Bruges.

Based on events in April 2016.

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: Antwerp Cantral, Belgium, Bruges, Hotel De Duif, Keukenhof, Lisse, Netherlands, Restaurant Den Ouden Heere, Schipol, train from Schipol to Bruges | Leave a comment

A Stroll through Keukenhof

Posted on October 25, 2016 by lclalor

Keukenhof, Dutch for kitchen garden, has a history dating back to the 1400’s when Jacoba van Beieren gathered fruit and vegetables in the area for Teylingen Castle. In 1641, Keukenhof Castle was built and the gardens were re-designed in 1857. Ultimately, the park was established in 1949 as a spring garden, today attracting over 1 million visitors each year to enjoy over 7 million tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and other spring flowers during the season in March, April, and May.(http://www.keukenhof.nl/en/)

Schipol Amsterdam Airport

Our flight from the U.S. arrived at Schipol Amsterdam Airport at 9:20 a.m. With our carry-on luggage in hand, we skipped baggage claim and headed straight for customs. After clearing customs, we stopped at an ATM to get euros then asked for directions at the information desk for the bus to Keukenhof. It’s an enormous airport but bus 858, the Keukenhof Express, stops right outside the door and goes directly to and from Keukenhof all day long. We purchased a combi-ticket for 24 euros each which covered round-trip transportation from Schipol in addition to the entrance fee.

Before 10 a.m., the lines were still short. We boarded the bus with our luggage and took the half hour ride to Keukenhof in Lisse where we arrived directly outside the main entrance. We could have stored our luggage at the park but we decided instead to walk the 2 km (1.24 mi) to our hotel and leave our bags there. We hoped for an early check-in after our overnight flight but our room wasn’t ready so we used the restroom near the lobby to freshen up, left our bags at the hotel, and headed back to the park.

Keukenhof main entrance

As we entered the park, we picked up a map to find our way around the 32 hectares (79 acres) but we really didn’t devise a plan of attack. Instead, we just wandered in wonder at the beauty surrounding us. Staff explained that the season was a bit delayed and, while there was a chill in the air, the sun was shining and it was truly a perfect spring day to us. We later heard there was a cold snap several days after our visit with hail and snow and the nearby annual Flower Parade was adversely affected.

Map of Keukenhof

Also immediately inside the main entrance, we found a charming barrel organ playing folk music that set the stage for visitors.

Jim taking a break on a walkway in Keukenhof

That’s me crouching behind the tulips

One of over 800 varieties of tulips onsite

The Delft Blue Garden

Dutch shoes at the Delft Blue Garden

View of bulb fields from Keukenhof

Eventually, we found our way to the windmill and climbed it to check out the view.

Windmill at Keukenhof

View of bulb fields from the windmill at Keukenhof

Next to the windmill, I spied a ticket counter for the whisper boat canal tour of the bulb fields. We wouldn’t have enough time in Lisse to rent bikes or drive the flower route to see the bulb fields so this seemed like a good opportunity. The tickets were around 8 euros each and rather than standing in line until it was our turn, they scheduled our tour at 2:15 so we could explore further and return at the appointed time.

The whisper boat, powered by electricity, glided silently through the canals while we listened to information through headphones. Tulips originated in central Asia and Turkey and first appeared in Holland in the 16th century. Their extreme popularity resulted in a period in Dutch history called tulip mania during which speculation and soaring prices caused what may have been the first economic bubble. Today the Netherlands are the largest producer of tulips, half of which are exported. Because the canals and the boats were at the same level as the fields, the views weren’t as good as I expected but nevertheless, we thoroughly enjoyed our tour.

Selfie on the whisper boat at Keukenhof

Bulb fields from whisper boat

Bulb fields

Bulb fields

After our 45-minute boat ride, we were recharged and ready to walk some more.

Hyacinth

Jim put his hand by these tulips to show how big they are

Another selfie

Such beauty

Flower mosaic

The bulbs are provided to the park at no charge by the producers and planted by hand each fall in a new design every year. The theme in 2016 was The Golden Age, referring to the period in Dutch history during the 17th century when tulip mania peaked.

These gardens are arguably the most beautiful in the world. And honestly, the fragrance permeating the air captivated me nearly as much as the amazing sights. I wish I could share the scent of hyacinth with you. If you visit the Netherlands in springtime, a stroll through Keukenhof is not to be missed.

Based on events in April 2016.

Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: Holland, Keukenhof, Lisse, Netherlands, spring garden, tulipmania, tulips, whisper boats | 9 Comments

Siesta Key and Beyond

Posted on October 18, 2016 by lclalor

At the end of my four-day solo travel experiment, my long-time friend Gail joined me on Siesta Key. The slow pace quickened immediately to a flurry of activity. Morning walks, paddleboarding, dinner at different restaurants each night, boating, visits with various friends in the area, and a trip to urgent care for Gail’s bronchial infection interrupted our number 1 priority, beach time. Here are the highlights.

Siesta Beach is my clear all-time favorite with a wide beach and soft, fine, white quartz sand that stays cool under the feet. Most mornings we joined other walkers getting their exercise in this beautiful setting directly across the street from our condo.

Siesta Beach

Morning walkers

When our walks took us off the beach, we twice succumbed to the temptation to stop for breakfast. Sun Garden in the village and Toasted Mango Cafe on Midnight Pass Road both got high marks from us.

My daughter-in-law’s mother, Tricia, kindly invited us to Ft. Meyers for a day of boating. A sunny day on the water was irresistible. I hadn’t been to the Ft. Meyers area previously so seeing more of this part of Florida by water was fun and Tricia and Gary were excellent hosts.

Our hosts, Tricia and Gary

Tricia and me- the mothers

Gail and me at lunch

Another day we drove north from Sarasota to Anna Maria Island, stopping at several beaches along the way. As we drove through Sarasota, I snapped a photo of the 25-foot tall sculpture by Seward Johnson, Unconditional Surrender, based on a photo taken on V-J Day in Times Square.

Unconditional Surrender sculpture

Following lunch at the Sand Bar on Anna Maria, we relaxed on the beach for awhile and then checked out several of the piers in the area.

Lunch at the Sand Bar

My beach umbrella and Gail’s beach blanket at Anna Maria Beach

Anna Maria Beach

Rod and Reel Pier

Anna Maria City Pier

View from Anna Maria Pier toward the Sunshine Skyway Bridge

Anna Maria Pier

Ever since we discovered Dan at Siesta Key Paddleboards, we rent boards from him each year. He delivers the boards to us at Turtle Beach and we paddle through the canals to a secluded beach that only boaters frequent. Recently, a friend asked me if there are alligators in the canals. This is salt water and the gators prefer brackish water so no, we have never seen an alligator here…thankfully. We did see a dolphin in the canal, however.

Our man, Dan, setting us up with paddleboards

Paddleboarding fun

It’s always fun to see friends from home while we’re in Florida. We visited Gail’s friends, Jenny and Jeff, who now live full-time in Venice and my friends, Nancy and Jamie, who winter at a golf community just south of Siesta Key. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to visit our friends, Deb and Dan, in Naples this year but we hope to see them soon.

Jenny and Jeff

Nancy and Jamie

Finally, we had some outstanding meals during our stay. Casey Key Fish House and Indigenous were my favorites.

Gail and I have been friends for over 50 years. Check back in the next 50 for more of our adventures together on Siesta Key and beyond.

Based on events from March 2016.

Categories: Uncategorized, USA | Tags: Anna Maria City Pier, Anna Maria Island, Casey Key Fish House, Florida, Indigenous, Sarasota, Siesta Beach, Siesta Key, Siesta Key Paddleboards | Leave a comment

Solo on Siesta Key

Posted on October 15, 2016 by lclalor

My friend, Gail, and I have spent a week together in Florida at Sarasota or on Siesta Key in March for the past 5 years. In 2016, in order to extend my stay to two weeks, I planned to spend the first 4 days alone. Most condos in Siesta Key rent by the week from Saturday to Saturday and Gail couldn’t get there until Wednesday. I’ve never particularly aspired to solo traveling but my husband consistently declines to join us on this trip. Regarding the opportunity as a growth experience, I was willing to give it a try to get out of the winter cold in north Iowa for a little longer.

In the past, I’ve flown into Tampa, met Gail at the airport, picked up our rental car, and Gail drove the 72 miles south to Siesta Key. This time, I flew into St. Pete-Clearwater International Airport where I found a cheaper flight and picked up my rental car and faced my first challenge with trepidation: driving the Sunshine Skyway Bridge across Tampa Bay. As a recovering acrophobe, I knew this would be a definite test. Frankly, I was very nervous and I talked out loud to myself to calm my fears. Meanwhile, Siri was also talking out loud to give me directions on my I-phone. Safely taking a photo under those conditions would have been totally impossible for me so the pic below was taken 2 weeks later on the way back to the airport with Gail driving. (As you can see, it was also raining so it was a good time to leave.)

I made it! The worst part was in my head– seeing it and thinking about it. Actually doing it wasn’t nearly as bad.

After a stop at the grocery store in Sarasota, I headed out to the island to check into La Siesta Condominiums. Aah…that view. Yes, I know there’s a pool, a clubhouse, a street, and a parking lot between me and the Gulf but it’s heaven to me.

Our view

I planned to return my rental car the following morning in Sarasota and walk back to Siesta Key. Until Gail arrived I would relax on the island, walk the beach, eat my meals on the lanai with a view, read a little and write a lot.

Our condo

Kitchen at the condo

My workspace

Siesta Key Beach

Breakfast at the beach

Beautiful Siesta Key Beach

Gulf view from Siesta Key Beach

Day’s end on Siesta Key

So how do I feel about solo traveling? It’s definitely not my preference. Although I’m perfectly capable of entertaining myself and I love to spend time alone especially in the morning, I tend to do less when I’m alone. That’s probably because I’m kind of a scaredy cat and somewhat shy. So I did the things I enjoy doing alone like walking the beach, meditating, reading, and writing, but I didn’t go out to eat or socialize. If I traveled alone more often or for longer periods, I’d have to make a greater effort to plan activities to prevent feeling isolated. Fortunately, I have several great travel partners so, at least at this stage of my life, I won’t be traveling solo too often.

Based on events from March 2016.

Categories: Uncategorized, USA | Tags: Florida, La Siesta Condominiums, Sarasota, Siesta Key, solo travel | 2 Comments

One More Puerto Aventuras Post

Posted on October 11, 2016 by lclalor

It’s time to move on. But before we do, I want to share several miscellaneous recollections from Puerto Aventuras.

Super Chedraui is the supermarket located outside the gates of PA, certainly within walking distance for us although the highway is rather busy. They stock everything we needed including great fresh produce, wine, and beer. A word of caution: our debit card was skimmed probably at the ATM outside the store so be careful! If possible, get local currency from an ATM at a bank before you arrive because there are no banks in PA.

If the supermarket isn’t your thing, check out the farmer’s market held in the heart of PA on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. The produce looked the same as the grocery store (and maybe it was) but it was a convenient location. This is cash only, however, so bring pesos.

Farmer’s Market in Puerto Aventuras

Lots of fresh produce

Speaking of food, the best thing I ate in Puerto Aventuras was the fresh dorado, aka mahi-mahi or dolphin fish, that we purchased at the marina directly from a fishing boat. For 350 pesos (about $18 U.S.) the three of us ate fresh fish for three meals. That’s just $2 per person per meal! The entertainment value of using my simple Spanish to talk him into selling us that fish and then watching him filet it before our eyes was worth every peso, too.

Fileting the dorado we purchased

Our first meal of fresh dorado

The restaurants in PA offer basic food for a decent price. If you’re a foodie, however, you may want to search further afield for that “to die for” dish. The fresh locally sourced fish is always a good choice but often under-seasoned. Ask for pico de gallo to add some flavor. That said, we discovered Restaurante Dos Aguas that served an excellent paella with an outstanding Spanish tempranillo wine. I hope it’s still open next time.

Fresh fish at the restaurant in the Omni Hotel

Paella at Restaurante Dos Aguas

Picaña a la piedra at Restaurante Dos Aguas

Tres amigos al Restaurante Dos Aguas

As we walked to the gates of PA to catch the Colectivo (bus) to Tulum for a day trip to the beach, we stopped to watch pétanque for a while. Pétanque is a French game, very similar to the Italian bocce. On our next visit, I want to find out more about opportunities to play.

Pétanque in PA

Speaking of our day trip to Tulum, we fell in love with the beach the previous year and went back for a repeat experience. Sadly, the restaurant where we rented beach chairs for the day no longer existed. After a thorough search, we settled for a recently opened replacement.

Beach chairs at Tulum available when you purchase food

Fish tacos—it’s what’s for lunch

Playa Esperanza at Tulum

Jim and Laura at the beach at Tulum

For Jim and Gail, the perfect ending to each day in Puerto Aventuras was a visit to Jesse Gelato, where they make their own delicious products. I think they tried something different each night but they would tell you it was all good with large portions at low prices.

As I review my recollections of Puerto Aventuras, I am reminded of the beautiful views, lovely beaches, balmy winter temperatures, and low-key atmosphere. I’m excited to return in January 2017.

Dawn breaks on our last morning in paradise

Based on events of January 2016.

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Sailing Fat Cat from Puerto Aventuras

Posted on October 4, 2016 by lclalor

If you’re looking for a fun-filled sailing experience while visiting the Riviera Maya, check out Fat Cat Catamaran and Sailing Tours. For $100 per person, we got a four-hour sailing experience that included drinks, lunch, music, snorkeling, swimming, and even the catch of a dorado.

Our catamaran, Fat Cat Two

As we set sail at 9 am, most of the passengers were ready to party to the thumping dance music with drinks in hand–rum punch or beer. While I don’t usually succumb to sea sickness, I felt that alcohol so early in the day combined with motion might not set well on my stomach so I declined the offer and stuck with water until after lunch. My friend Gail definitely tends toward sea sickness so she abstained with me. I admit when drinks are included, there’s some pressure to imbibe, just to “get your money’s worth” but the seas were a little rough and I think it was a wise choice for both of us.

Gail showing a Corona Mega

Setting sail

Jim as we set sail

Out of the marina and into the open water

After sailing north toward Playa del Carmen for an hour or more, we anchored to snorkel. I snorkeled briefly but then returned to the boat to take photos instead. Someday I’m going to get a waterproof camera and take photos while in the water.

Our group snorkeling

Gail snorkeling

Gail returns to the boat

Jim snorkeling

Jim returns to the boat

While in the warm, crystal-clear water, the snorkelers saw many varieties of colorful reef fish, stingrays, and sea turtles. When they were finished, everyone had worked up an appetite and it was time for lunch. The others had a typical sack lunch containing sandwiches, chips, and cookies but I requested a gluten-free lunch and I was thrilled with my offering of tuna, lettuce, tomato, and avocado.

My lunch

After lunch, we headed back at a leisurely pace.

Jim enjoying the ride

Enjoying a rum punch on the return trip

The fishing lines were trolling off the rear of the boat and we were thrilled to watch the staff land a dorado, also called mahi-mahi in Hawaii or dolphinfish in other places. In Spanish, dorado means golden which perfectly describes this tasty fish. Everyone who cared to was offered the opportunity to pose with the fish.

Gail with the dorado

Jim with the dorado

Laura (me) with dorado

We made a final stop near our marina for swimming. While there we discovered one of the other passengers onboard was a firefighter from Iowa who knows my brother through rugby. I’m always amazed by the connections we find with people as we chat.

Swimming off the boat

My handsome man

As we sailed into the channel to the marina, I got a photo of our condo from the water.

View of our condo as we sail into the marina

It was a great day at sea and Jim was already talking about going again next year.

Based on events from January 2016.

Categories: Mexico, Uncategorized | Tags: dorado, Fat Cat Catamaran and Sailing Tours, Puerto Aventuras, snorkeling | Leave a comment

Beach Day at Playa del Carmen

Posted on September 27, 2016 by lclalor

Playa del Carmen is one of the top destinations on the Riviera Maya and while I’d been through there several times on my way to other places, I’d never spent any time there. It was time to correct that omission.

We took the colectivo, a mini bus that shuttles locals and tourists along the Riviera Maya, from Puerto Aventuras north to Playa del Carmen for 25 pesos (around $1.40).

Colectivo that shuttles people up and down the Riviera Maya

The bus dropped us a couple blocks from the beach. We passed the main shopping street, Fifth Avenue, but we were intent on finding a spot in the sand so we postponed any shopping until later.

Fifth Avenue in Playa del Carmen

Portal Maya, one entrance to the beach, was built in 2012 to commemorate the end of the Maya calendar. You may recall the Maya calendar ended on the winter solstice, December 21, in 2012, which resulted in many doomsday predictions but needless to say, they were wrong.

Portal Maya

I’m a shade lover so we found beach chairs with an umbrella that we could occupy for free as long as we ordered food from Wah Wah Beach Bar. Gail, on the other hand, stretched her towel out on the sand in the hot sunshine.

Jim and our beach chairs under the umbrella on Play del Carmen

Fish tacos and pork tacos

Our view

As we explored the beach, we spied the pier to the south where the ferries to Cozumel arrive and depart. Next year maybe we’ll check out Cozumel for a day trip.

Pier at Playa del Carmen

Walking the playa, Spanish for beach, is a good way to explore the area while getting some sun and exercise at the same time.

Looking north on the beach

Playa del Carmen

Walking the playa

I’ve always had a special affinity for lighthouses so I was charmed when I spotted the one below, called Faro Lighthouse. Faro means lighthouse in Spanish.

El Faro (Spanish for lighthouse)

Fishing and snorkeling boats

Boats tied up on shore

At the end of a perfectly gorgeous day on the playa, we wandered back to Fifth Avenue. You can find all the usual souvenirs along this street but there are also some higher end shops and plenty of restaurants, too. Jim and Gail had to try out the gelato but found it was more expensive than their favorite, Jessie’s, in Puerto Aventuras.

Gail and Jim on Fifth Avenue

Fifth Avenue

Shops on Fifth Avenue

Overall, I would recommend a visit to Playa del Carmen if you’re seeking a party atmosphere with lots of people and action. It was fun to visit for the day but at the end of the day, we were happy to return to quiet, laid-back Puerto Aventuras.

Based on events from January 2016.

Categories: Mexico, Uncategorized | Tags: ferry to Cozumel, Fifth Avenue, Playa del Carmen | Leave a comment

Stinking and Sinking in Puerto Aventuras

Posted on September 21, 2016 by lclalor

Our condo at Chac Hal Al overlooked Bahia de Fatima, a beautiful, serene bay with clear cerulean water perfect for swimming, kayaking, snorkeling, or paddle boarding. For the less active, it was a beautiful setting for sunbathing or just sitting in the shade of a palm tree or palapa with a good book or a cocktail.

Bahia de Fátima (Fatima Bay) from our beach

Báhia de Fátima (Fatima Bay) from our balcony

Swimmers and snorkelers at the beach

Gail paddle boarding

Jim chillaxin’ poolside with a view of the bay

Gail sunbathing on the beach

Jim with a view of the pool and the bay

Time for nachos and Coronitas

My view

Idyllic, wouldn’t you agree? That is until our idyll was disturbed by two events. The first disruption occurred when we observed this.

What looked like brown seaweed invaded the peaceful azure waters and definitely discouraged water activities. My research revealed it was sargassum or sargasso seaweed, which is an increasingly common problem in the Caribbean. The free-floating algae originate in the Sargasso Sea located in the Bermuda Triangle of the North Atlantic. While its existence is nothing new, the amount has increased dramatically and may be attributed to the warming of the ocean due to global climate change. In normal amounts, sargassum provides habitat for lots of marine life including hatching sea turtles but the massive amounts washing ashore today can adversely impact tourism. Clogging the water, it discourages swimmers and snorkelers and the smell as it deteriorates drives away beach-lovers.

I was impressed to see residents and employees working side by side to rake and bag the sargassum and haul it away from the beach. Soon they had the beach looking pristine again and ready for activities. We did, however, observe sargassum at other beaches along the Riviera Maya during our stay so I wonder how they are dealing with the issue.

Jim walking back from the area where clean-up occurred

The next puzzling event occurred when we noticed a large ship which appeared offshore in Bahia de Fatima.

Large ship in Bahia Fátima

After several days continued presence, we asked a local realtor that paddle boarded to our beach about it. She said a Mexican Navy ship hit the reef and sank. I posted a teaser on Facebook and Twitter that a blog post would follow. This is finally that post.

We still didn’t know the full story. Why was the large ship there? Day after day, when I saw it was still there, I wondered what it was doing and how long it would continue to be present. It dominated our view and became a daily topic of conversation.

Mexican Navy Ship

View of the navy ship from our upstairs balcony

We even discussed it over cocktails at the Omni swim-up bar.

Our view of the navy ship from the swim-up bar at the Omni Hotel

And then it was gone and the drama ended. We finally learned from reading the local paper, The Pelican Free Press, a Polaris Patrol Interceptor boat lost power causing it to hit the reef. It was hung up on the reef for several days, where Jim first saw it, but it sank when it was pulled from the rocks. Salvage operations first centered around removing equipment and weapons from the boat. The Mexican Navy’s second largest multipurpose logistical ship, a BAL-02, equipped with a hoist arrived to refloat the sunken ship and tow her in for repairs.

Life on Bahia Fátima returned to its previous undisturbed halcyon state. But I’m sure the tourists and locals who were there sometimes say, “Remember when…”

Next time: Playa del Carmen

Based on events from January 2016.

Categories: Mexico, Uncategorized, UNESCO | Tags: bahia de Fátima, Chac Hal Al, Pelican Free Press, Puerto Aventuras, sargassum | Leave a comment

Don’t Miss Chichen Itza

Posted on September 13, 2016 by lclalor

The Maya are an indigenous Mesoamerican people whose civilization flourished as long ago as 1800 B.C. in southeastern Mexico and the northern areas of Central America in Guatemala, Belize, and parts of Honduras and El Salvador. The city of Chichen Itza on the Yucatan Peninsula was established by the Maya people in the first half of the 5th century A.D. and was the center of civilization until its decline around 1200 A.D.

I’ve been to Mexico many times and I’ve visited the Maya archeological site at Tulum but this was my first visit to Chichen Itza. When I discovered it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, I was keen to see it. Our guide, Norma, provided many details about the Maya and the structures we viewed. For example, the Maya grew cacao for a chocolate drink, they had a complex written language recorded in books, they were brilliant astronomers, and played a game on a large court putting a ball through a hoop.

There are many descendants of the Maya people still residing in the Yucatan and their homes continue to be organically constructed of earth or wood with thatched roofs as shown in the photo below.

Typical Maya dwelling

As we entered Chichen Itza, the main thoroughfare was lined with vendors selling their wares. We were on a tour with a guide so there was no opportunity to shop at that time even though we had learned to ask in Mayan, “Bahoosh?” (how much).

Vendors lining the entrance to Chichen Itza

High Priest’s Grave

Wall along the Great Ball Court

Ruin at Chichen Itza

Norma, our guide

Caracol, an observatory for astronomy

Las Monjas

Path through the jungle at Chichen Itza

The iconic El Castillo, or Pyramid of Kukulcan, is the building everyone goes to Chichen Itza to see. The four sides of this temple each contain 91 steps which total 364 plus one single step at the top for a grand total of 365 steps which equal the number of days in the Mayan calendar. I was under the incorrect assumption that we could climb to the top and felt some trepidation at the thought. A friend of mine told me about the experience. She said the steps were so narrow and steep that coming down she had to sit on the staircase and ease down step by step. Thankfully, visitors are no longer allowed to climb so we dodged that bullet.

The Temple of Kukulcan or El Castillo

Temple of Kukulkan behind us

Following our tour of Chichen Itza, we had a tasty buffet lunch at a restaurant designed to feed busloads of tourists.

Fresh tortillas for lunch

Buffet for a multitude

Following lunch, we stopped at Ik Kil for a swim in one of the most beautiful cenotes I’ve seen. A cenote is a sinkhole where the Maya and others located their towns to have a supply of fresh water available.

Ik Kil

We declined to swim but enjoyed the experience, nevertheless. And best of all, Norma advised us before leaving the bus to be back by 2:30 saying, “If you’re not back on time, it’s okay. We’ll be back here in two days and we’ll pick you up then.” No one was late!

Based on events from January 2016.

Categories: Mexico, Uncategorized, UNESCO | Tags: cenote, Chichen Itza, El Castillo, Ik Kil, Maya, New Seven Wonders of the World, Temple of kukulkan, Yucatan | 6 Comments

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