cruise

Back to Avignon

Posted on April 4, 2017 by lclalor

On Day 3 of our Viking River Cruise, we returned to Avignon. With our whisper boxes in hand, we set off on foot that morning for our included excursion to tour the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) and the historic center. (A whisper box is a headset that enables the wearer to better hear the tour guide.)

Once inside the ramparts, we meandered through the medieval streets while our guide pointed out several buildings on our way to the Popes’ Palace. Incidentally, you can walk the ramparts which I would like to do next time.

Ramparts surrounding historic center of Avignon

Church of St. Agricola in Avignon

Gargoyle on Church of St. Agricola, Avignon

Clock tower at Hôtel de Ville (City Hall)

Lori in front of Opera Theater in Avignon

View of Cathedral Notre-Dame des Doms d’Avignon

The Palace of the Popes is the largest gothic palace in Europe and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. Why, you may wonder did the papacy relocate to Avignon, France in 1309? Pope Boniface VIII had earlier issued two edicts; one prohibited taxation of the clergy and the other asserted the supremacy of papal authority over temporal authority. Philip IV, King of France, objected to these edicts and responded by taking Boniface prisoner for a short time and the Pope died soon after his release. When Pope Clement V from France was elected, he reached an agreement with King Philip to settle in Avignon where the papacy would remain for nearly 70 years. This period was known as the Babylonian Captivity of the Church, in reference to the 70-year Jewish exile in Babylon.

The Palace of the Popes actually consists of two palaces; construction of the Old Palace commenced in 1335 under Pope Benedict XII and the New Palace was completed less than 20 years later by Pope Clement VI. The model below shows just how vast the complex is, covering 15,000 square meters (over 161,000 square feet).

Palace of the Popes model: the Old Palace is on the left and behind, the New Palace on the right in front

Jerry and Kathy outside the old doors at the Palace of the Popes

View from Courtyard of Honor at Palace of the Popes, Avignon

Courtyard of Honor at Palace of the Popes, Avignon

Sculpture in Palace of the Popes

Frescoes in Palace of the Popes

Photography of the priceless frescoes in the private apartments and chapels of the Palace of the Popes was not allowed but I took several photos of the video shown to illustrate the beauty.

Grand Tinel or Banquet Hall, Palace of the Popes

Plaster effigies in Palace of the Popes

Passion of the Christ sculpture in the Consistory of the Palace of the Popes

The Great Clementine Chapel, Palace of the Popes

The acoustics are absolutely amazing in this chapel. When none of us volunteered to sing, our guide sang for us. I could hear her all the way at the other end of the chapel. Listen to her.

The Papal Seat in Consistory Hall

Central Courtyard, Palace of the Popes

Sadly, many of the sculptures were beheaded during the French Revolution. If you look closely, you can see the heads are missing on the archway of the doors below.

Sculptured doorway at Palace of the Popes

Following the departure of the papacy, the Catholic Church maintained ownership of the palace until the French Revolution. Under the subsequent Napoleonic rule, the palace was used as a military barracks and prison until 1906 when it became a national museum and restoration began. Today the Palace of the Popes doesn’t compare to the lavish splendor of the Vatican in Rome, but I imagine in the 14th century when it was filled with tapestries and treasures, it would have come close.

I was excited that we were headed next to Les Halles, the indoor market. On our way, we stopped at Basilique St. Pierre to see the intricately carved walnut doors and the gold-gilded Renaissance altar.

Basilique St. Pierre

Carved doors on Basilique St. Pierre

Altar in Basilique St. Pierre

Entrance to Les Halles

Our guide and Viking staff offer us samples

Les Halles fruit stand

Les Halles fromage (cheese)

Poisson (fish) at Les Halles

I purchased a large package of herbes de Provence from the spice stall to use at home and bring back memories of the time and food we enjoyed in Provence.

Spices at Les Halles

My daughter-in-law likes macarons so I purchased some of those, too, to take home to her. Then they served macarons on our ship a couple days later.

Macarons at Les Halles

La Patisserie at Les Halles

We accomplished all of this in the morning, then headed back to the ship for lunch before our optional excursion that afternoon to Pont du Gard. Check back for my next post. Pont du Gard was truly amazing.

Based on events from November 2016.

References:

Viking Daily

Tour guide engaged by Viking

Categories: cruise, Uncategorized, UNESCO | Tags: Avignon, Babylonian Captivity, Basilique St. Pierre, Church of St. Agricola, France, Les Halles, Opera Theater, Palace of the Popes, Viking River Cruise | 4 Comments

Tarascon Tour

Posted on March 28, 2017 by lclalor

Is a visit to a castle on your bucket list? It was on our friend, Jerry’s, and he was especially excited when the opportunity presented itself on day 2 of our Viking River Cruise. After a tasty lunch onboard, we set off on foot to see Tarascon Castle, or Château de Tarascon, as it’s called in France.

Rebuilt by Louis II, Louis III, the Dukes of Anjou, and the Counts of Provence in the early 1400’s on the site of the previously destroyed castle, Tarascon Castle was used both as a residence and a military base. When the castle was later converted into a military prison, graffiti engraved by prisoners appeared on the walls and is still evident today. None of the sumptuous furnishings that would have once filled the space remain but one can imagine how resplendent it looked.

Jim and Jerry on the bridge at the entrance to Tarascon Castle

Tarascon Castle

Jerry at the Castle door

The old moat

Tarascon Castle

Tarascon Castle gardens

Tarascon Castle

Tarascon Castle

Studying the brochure

Chapel

Salle des festins where banquets were held, Tarascon Castle

I was fascinated to see the toilet that emptied down the side of the castle wall

View across the river to ruins of Beaucaire Castle from Tarascon Castle

View of the town of Tarascon from the top of the castle

Decorative drain spout at Tarascon Castle

Jerry and Lori on the roof of Tarascon Castle

View of the Rhône River from the roof of Tarascon Castle

View from the top of Tarascon Castle with the Viking Buri on the right

View across the top level of Tarascon Castle

View of the garden from the top of the castle

After making it all the way to the roof and back down, we discovered we hadn’t visited all the rooms so we went back through to see what we had missed. The rooms containing graffiti engraved by prisoners were some of the most interesting to me.

Graffiti

Graffiti

Graffiti

Jim and I at Tarascon Castle

Jerry told us his first visit to a castle exceeded his expectations and he looked like he thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

Jerry at the end of our visit to Tarascon Castle

When we left the castle, we continued into the town of Tarascon.

Jim, Jerry, and I walking in medieval Tarascon

Another view of Tarascon

The Church of Sainte-Marthe was built on the site where Martha, sister of Lazarus and Mary, lived in Tarascon. According to the Golden Legend, after the resurrection, Martha traveled to Provence and preached the word and converted the people to Christianity. She also tamed a fierce dragon, the Tarasque, by sprinkling holy water on him, after which the people of the town killed the dragon. Sainte-Marthe’s relics are entombed in the church.

Church of Sainte-Marthe

Interior of Church of Sainte-Marthe

Interior of Church of Sainte-Marthe

Crypt of Sainte-Marthe

Sarcophagus of Sainte-Marthe

After a full day of touring first Arles then Tarascon which racked up more than 15,000 steps on my Fitbit, we were more than ready for dinner that evening. We decided to take our waiter’s recommendation and ordered the chef’s choice. We enjoyed a delectable dinner accompanied by French wine and authentic French bistro music.

Lobster and shrimp bisque

Poached asparagus with prosciutto, ricotta panna cotta, quail egg, and balsamic reduction

Châteaubriand

Soufflé au chocolat

Following dinner, we enjoyed nighttime views of the Bridge of Avignon as we returned to the city where we would begin day 3 of our cruise.

Based on events from October and November 2016.

References:

Tarascon Castle brochure obtained at the castle

Categories: cruise, Europe, Uncategorized | Tags: France, Tarascon, Tarascon Castle, Viking River Cruise | 1 Comment

A Walking Tour of Arles, France

Posted on March 21, 2017 by lclalor

We first glimpsed Tarascon, France through the early morning mist on the Rhône river. As the castle came into view, we knew that day 2 of our river cruise promised to be at least as delightful as the first. Our ship docked at this small town of 13,000 inhabitants, 11 miles (18 km) north of Arles. Tarascon would have to wait until later in the day, however, because we were scheduled for a walking tour of Arles that morning.

Dawn on the Rhône River approaching Tarascon

Tarascon Castle from the Rhône River

But first, a good breakfast was in order to fuel our explorations. We were offered an outstanding array on the buffet or we could order from the menu or both.

Scrumptious breakfast

Following breakfast, our motor coach waited to transport us to Arles, pop. 50,000. Arles was settled by the Greeks as early as the 6th century, BC, and the city was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its Roman monuments dating from the 1st century, BC, and Romanesque monuments from the 11th and 12th centuries.

As we walked through the city, I was charmed by almost everything I saw.

The Roman Amphitheater, still in use today for bullfights and other events, was built in the 1st century AD to accommodate 21,000 spectators.

Lori and Jim at the Roman Amphitheater

Inside the Roman Amphitheater

Inside the Roman Amphitheater

The nearby Roman Theater, built in the 1st century BC, was not as well-preserved as the amphitheater but it, too, is still used today for outdoor performances, accommodating audiences of 8,000.

As we continued our stroll toward the Place de la Republique, I captured a few views along the way.

The Place de la Republique, where the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) is located, is the center of the historic district. The ancient Egyptian obelisk was moved here from the amphitheater in 1676.

Place de la Republique

Facing the Place de la Republique is another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Church and Cloister of St. Trophime, named for an early bishop of Arles. The facade of the Romanesque church features sculptured scenes of the Last Judgement including Christ in Majesty surrounded by symbols of the four Evangelists above the doorway, the righteous being delivered to the saints on the left, and the chain-bound souls being delivered to hell on the right.

Christ in Majesty with the Evangelists

The righteous delivered to the saints

The damned with chains around their waists delivered to hell

Inside the Church of St. Trophime

Church of St. Trophime Interior

Church of St. Trophime

Church of St. Trophime

Incidentally, the Church of St. Trophime is a stop along one of the pilgrimage routes of the Camino de Santiago. We didn’t see any pilgrims while we were there, however.

Vincent Van Gogh arrived in Arles in 1888 at age 34 and spent 15 months here producing 300 paintings including some of his most famous. It was here that he cut off his ear and was hospitalized at the old Arles Hospital where he painted Le Jardin de la Maison de Santé a Arles. Today this hospital is a cultural center featuring many of Van Gogh’s works. Sadly, the artist died young in 1890.

Sign to mark the place where Van Gogh painted Le Jardin de la Maison de Santé a Arles

In the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh

Sign to identify the cafe where Van Gogh painted Le Café Le Soir

Location of the painting Le Cafe Le Soir (Cafe Terrace at Night)

Another view of the café

Marker for Van Gogh’s La Nuit Étoilée

View of the river where La Nuit Étoilée was painted by Vincent Van Gogh

We saw one more ancient Roman monument on our walking tour, the Baths of Constantine, dating from the 4th century.

Baths of Constantine

Baths of Constantine

Before boarding our bus to return to Tarascon, I took a few photos of The Bridge of Lions. The bridge was destroyed in a WWII bombing but the lions have been restored and stand regally on guard on the embankment of the River Rhône.

Upon our return to our ship, the Viking Buri, we were greeted by staff with a welcome aboard drink for us.

Check back for a tour of Tarascon Castle.

Based on events from October 2016.

Categories: cruise, Europe, Uncategorized, UNESCO | Tags: Arles, Baths of Constantine, Church of St Trophime, France, Place de la Republique, Rhone River, Roman Amphitheater, Roman Theater, Tarascon, Van Gogh, Viking Buri, Viking River Cruise, walking tour | Leave a comment

Day 1: Sur le Pont d’Avignon

Posted on March 14, 2017 by lclalor

Day 1 of our Viking River Cruise, embarkation day, provided us with just a brief sample of the city of Avignon, France in the region of Provence. We arrived late in the afternoon and, after settling into our cabins, we joined the welcome walk through the historic center with a local guide.

Avignon is a walled city with narrow medieval streets and loads of French charm. The historic center is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

View of historic Avignon from outside the city walls

Avignon city walls

The Avignon City Wall

Our group on the welcome walk

Beautiful architecture with typical French charm

Another charmer

A gated view

Avignon is historically significant as the seat of the Papacy from 1309 to 1378. (More on that later.) The view in the photo below of the outside of the Palace of the Popes stirred our anticipation for the tour of the palace scheduled on day 3 of our cruise.

Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes)

Palais des Papes

Conservatory of Music on the Place du Palais across from the palace

The main square, Place de l’Horloge, is the center of many community activities with the National Opera Theater, the Hotel de Ville (City Hall), and even a carousel. It’s also a perfect place for people watching.

National Opera Theater

Hotel de Ville (City Hall)

Place de l’Horloge

Carousel on Place de l’Horloge

There are over 50 locations with trompe l’oeil (a painting technique to create optical illusion) in Avignon and our guide pointed out one for us on the Place de Sorano. Window peeking is acceptable in this building.

I learned the children’s nursery rhyme, Sur le Pont d’Avignon (On the Bridge of Avignon), in my high school French class and I can still sing it to this day. The bridge in the song was built across the Rhone River in the 12th century but flooding destroyed it several times until finally, in the 17th century it was abandoned. Today only 4 of the original 22 arches remain but it’s one of the major tourist attractions in Avignon.

Le Pont d’Avignon

After our guided stroll through the historic center, we stopped to shop at Le Chateau du Bois to purchase some lavender oil, a well-known product of Provence.

Le Chateau du Bois in Avignon

Lavender growing in Avignon

Lori and I with our lavender purchases from Chateau du Bois

To close out day 1 of our river cruise on the Viking Buri, we enjoyed our first meal prepared by Executive Chef, Pascal Vallee, and his staff.

Desserts

Everything including the wine was delicious and we looked forward to each and every meal thereafter.

Dinner on the Viking Buri

Based on events from October 2016.

Categories: cruise, Europe, Uncategorized, UNESCO | Tags: Avignon, France, Viking River Cruise | Leave a comment

Just Another Packing Post

Posted on February 11, 2017 by lclalor

Some of you have been patiently waiting for blog posts about our Viking River cruise through the south of France at the end of October 2016. I’ll begin those posts soon but we leave today for another epic adventure. We fly to Auckland, New Zealand where we will spend 5 days then depart for a 19-day cruise to Australia, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore. This is the longest trip we’ve ever taken and my friend, Gail, asked me to do a packing post to share what I’m taking in my carry-on suitcase for 27 days. So, I’m taking that challenge and I’m excited to show you what fits in a carry-on plus backpack for this trip.

A couple caveats are in order. First, we’ll be in the southern hemisphere where it’s summer and temperatures vary from the 60’s (16C) at night to the 70’s (23C) to upper 80’s (31C) in the daytime. Obviously and fortunately, lightweight clothing takes up less space. Second, we are eligible to have 2 bags of laundry done for us on the cruise ship, but I have no idea how many items that will be. Finally, my lightweight socks and undies dry quickly when hand washed.

The last time I did a packing post I forgot to mention sleepwear and a friend humorously pointed that out. Deb, I have a lightweight nightgown although no one is sharing our cabin on this trip so I don’t really need one. 😉

Here’s what I’m taking:

3 dresses to wear for dinner (one is reversible so it’s really 4)

2 golf skorts that can be worn like shorts or to the dining room like a skirt

3 shorts–black, khaki, jean

1 legging

8 shirts that can be dressy or casual

7 panties

2 bras (wash 1 wear 1)

1 nightgown

2 work-out outfits

1 sweater, 1 athletic jacket, 1 rain jacket

2 swimsuits + cover-up

1 scarf that can be worn as a wrap

2 hats

too many shoes: 1 trainer, 1 walking sandal, 1 dressy flip-flop, 1 pool flip-flop, 1 water shoe

umbrella

water bottle

2 cloth bags that roll up compactly to use for the beach or shopping

The dress in back is reversible

3 shorts, 2 skorts, 1 legging

8 versatile shirts

Raincoat, jacket, sweater (all black) + scarf

Shoes–all lightweight that take up little space

In my baggie of liquids, I have sunscreen (eco-friendly that we can wear in the water at the Great Barrier Reef), hairspray, jojoba oil, eye drops, perfume, mascara.

Toiletries such as hair brush, comb, bar soap (provided everywhere but I like my own), bar shampoo (same as soap reason), curling iron, electric toothbrush (we’ll buy full-size toothpaste and mouthwash when we arrive in New Zealand), small make-up bag

Medication bag including first aid items

Too much technology including laptop, Ipad, Iphone, kindle, extra battery pack, power cords, power strip (staterooms lack outlets), headphones, adapters for hotels in New Zealand and Singapore (onboard there are American outlets)

I rolled all the clothing. It takes up less space that way and minimizes wrinkling. Everything fit easily into my regulation size (22X14X9) carry-on suitcase. In fact, I had enough extra room that I considered throwing in an extra dress and shirt but I resisted. I packed the electronics and liquids plus a small purse into my personal item, a small backpack.

Everything in my suitcase with room to spare

Ready to go

I’ve never been short of clothing on a trip. In fact, I still seem to take an item or two that I don’t even wear. If necessary, there are stores everywhere including on the ship so I can always purchase what I need. I’ll report back at the end of this trip to let you know whether I had too much, too little, or the right amount. Meanwhile, feel free to weigh in. Do you think I’ll be horribly short of clothing options?

Categories: cruise, Uncategorized | 6 Comments

Camino de Santiago

Posted on January 31, 2017 by lclalor

The story of the Camino de Santiago or the Way of St. James, is a mixture of history and legend. Historically, we know St. James the Apostle spent time on the Iberian peninsula seeking converts to Christianity, then he returned to Jerusalem where he was beheaded in 44 AD. Legend has it his body, accompanied by two disciples and two angels, was transported by boat to Galicia for burial. Nearly 800 years later a shepherd named Pelayo found some bones in a field which were declared to be the relics of St. James. Hearing of the discovery, King Alfonso II commissioned a church in the area and later, in 1078, a cathedral was built to house the relics. The town of Santiago (St. James) de Compostela (burial ground) grew up around it. Pilgrims came from around the world to see the relics of St. James and continue to come to this day.

Today there are 2.5 million visitors to Santiago de Compostela each year and about a half million are pilgrims walking the Camino, the third most important Christian pilgrimage after Jerusalem and Rome. If you walk 100 km or bike or ride a horse 200 km to Santiago by the routes on the map below, you can receive the Compostela, a certificate of completion. For Catholics, completion of the Camino during a holy year which only occurs every 25 years or by special declaration, also carries with it a plenary indulgence. (A plenary indulgence essentially forgives sins and can shorten the time in Purgatory.) Pope Francis declared 2016 a holy year so it may be a while, however, before another occurs. And by the way, Santiago de Compostela and the Camino are UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Map of Camino de Santiago Routes provided by http://www.caminoadventures.com

Vigo, Spain, on the Galician coast was our final port of call on our Holland America cruise on the ms Rotterdam and we booked transportation to Santiago de Compostela for the day. Photos taken through the windows on the bus were on the whole, unsatisfactory, but I thought one photo with the explanation shared by the guide should be included. Throughout the countryside, we frequently saw what looked to me like raised miniature churches. They are called horreos, granaries that hold any kind of grain but especially corn in this area. The horreos are raised from the ground to keep the grain dry and often built of concrete to keep rats out.

Horreo seen from the bus

As our bus approached the city, we saw more and more pilgrims with their walking sticks reaching the end of their Camino. We parked a short distance away from the Old Town and our guide led us on foot. Approaching the Cathedral, the excitement was palpable as we followed a pilgrim through a passageway where a bagpiper played traditional Galician music.

Passageway into Praza do Obradoiro

Sadly, our first view of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela was almost completely obscured by scaffolding but I appreciate that repairs and restoration continue to protect the cathedral for future generations to enjoy.

Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

Clocktower at Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

Hostal dos Reis Católicos across from the cathedral

The scallop shell is the symbol that marks the Camino to guide pilgrims along the trail. Although there are several explanations of the symbolism, the one that resonates most with me is the grooves on the shell begin from different points but all lead to one central point just as the many Caminos all lead to the destination of Santiago de Compostela.

Scallop shell that marks the Camino

Inside the cathedral, the celebration of Mass was in progress but visitors were welcome, nevertheless.

Interior of the Cathedral

Interior of Cathedral

Censer for burning incense during mass

Statue of St. James that visitors touch, hug, or kiss as they pass behind it to see the crypt

Crypt of St. James

Back outside, we walked around to the north facade of the Cathedral, then wandered through the narrow medieval streets of the Old Town.

North facade of Cathedral

Old Town Santiago de Compostela

Old Town scene

Rick, Lori, Laura, and Jim trying the local fare in Old Town

Typical dish recommended by our waiter

Local produce

Iberian ham in a local shop

We bought just one item in the local shops–a cross of St. James rosary for our Catholic son who bears the middle name of James.

Cross of St. James or Santiago Cross

As we stood on the street in the Old Town, we were delighted by a surprise parade through the narrow cobblestone street.

At the appointed hour, we headed back to the Cathedral and our meeting place for the return bus trip to Vigo and our cruise ship.

Lori, Rick, Jim, and Jeff outside the south facade, the oldest of the Cathedral

I would love a return trip to Santiago de Compostela and the thought of a hiking adventure appeals to me. Our visit fired my imagination with visions of hiking the French Way, the original route marked in heavy red shown on the map above. Cheryl Strayed hiked 1100 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail. Bill Bryson hiked nearly 800 miles of the Appalachian Trail. l propose we walk just 100 km (62 miles) from Sarria to Santiago which will earn us our Compostela. Who wants to go with me?

Based on events from May 2016.

Categories: cruise, Europe, Uncategorized, UNESCO | Tags: Camino de Santiago, Galicia, horreo, Santiago de Compostela, Way of St James | 4 Comments

Explorers in Lisbon

Posted on January 19, 2017 by lclalor

During the 15th century, Portugal rose to dominance as a maritime power and Lisbon, one of the oldest capitals in Europe, became the most prosperous trading center on the continent. Under the leadership of Prince Henry the Navigator, Portugal entered the Age of Discovery. Knowing we were walking in the footsteps of these great travelers who preceded us sent shivers down my spine.

We set off with alacrity the morning of day 2 in Lisbon to continue our own exploration. After a long fruitless wait at a tram stop for the famous Tram 28 to show us the city highlights, we continued walking until we reached Figueira Square, a transportation hub for the city.

King João I, Figueira Square

Adjacent to Figueira Square, we found Rossio Square where it looked like a market would open soon, judging by the small white tents lining the square. No time to wait for that. We were intrigued by the wavy pattern in the pavement that seemed appropriate for the capital of a country whose Golden Age was based on sea power.

Praca do Rossio, Rossio Square, Lisbon

Statue of Dom Pedro IV, Rossio Square

We debated how to get to the district of Belem, about 4 miles away, to see the UNESCO World Heritage sites and the Monument to the Discoveries. The trolley supposedly went there and we had yet to ride it so that was one option. Lori and I were somewhat enamored with the touristy yet appealing tuk-tuk but Jim was unenthusiastic. We could also go by bus or taxi. In the end, we settled on a taxi as the quickest and simplest solution with our limited time.

We had the taxi deliver us to Belem Tower, constructed around 1515 as part of the defense system on the Tagus River to guard the entrance to Lisbon’s harbor. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983.

Belem Tower

A short walk away, we found the other UNESCO site, the Monastery of the Hieronymites, built by King Dom Manuel I as a gift to the monks of St. Heronymus in exchange for their prayers for the king and seafaring explorers. Appropriately, Vasco da Gama, who famously discovered the route to India by sailing around Africa in 1497 and prayed here with his men before the voyage, is entombed within the monastery.

Monastery of the Hieronymites

Monastery of the Hieronymites

After exploration on our own, we eventually discovered the underpass to cross the highway to the Monument to the Discoveries. Built in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator, this monument memorializes explorers, cartographers, monks, leaders, and others from the Golden Age of Discovery, including Vasco da Gama, Magellan, King Manual I and others, led by Prince Henry at what appears to be the bow of a ship headed out to sea.

Monument to the Discoveries from across the highway

Monument to the Discoveries

Monument to the Discoveries, Belem

Monument to the Discoveries with 25th of April Bridge and Cristo Rei in the background

View of 25th of April Bridge and Cristo Rei from Monument of the Discoveries

If the two sights in the photo above look familiar, the 25th of April Bridge, named for the revolution of 1974, looks much like the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco except that this one is longer. Cristo Rei, the monument on the other side of the Tagus River, was inspired by the Christ the Redeemer monument in Rio de Janeiro.

Whether you call it a cable car, trolley, or tram, a ride on this vehicle is a highlight of any visit to Lisbon. We had the taxi drop us at the stop farthest west for Tram 28. The famous tram is so full by the time it gets further into the city that it’s nearly impossible to get a ride. At the outermost stop, everyone is required to get off and reboard and we were rewarded with seats by using this strategy. Tram 28 comes with pickpocket warnings due to the crowds of tourists who are distracted by the sights and ripe for the picking, so a seat where we could grip our purses while we took in the views was reassuring.

Tram 28

Riding Tram 28

View from Tram 28

Scenes from Tram 28

While the photo ops from a moving vehicle aren’t always the best, we saw more of the old city than we could cover on foot and we thoroughly enjoyed our ride on Tram 28.

After we disembarked, we saw the scene below. The old buildings covered in satellite dishes struck me as a study in contrasts that demanded digital capture.

Lisbon old and new

On our way back to the ship, we encountered a flea market but we didn’t really have the time or interest to shop.

Flea Market in Lisbon

Here are just a couple more photos from the city.

Lisbon

Lisbon

Our final stop on our way back to the ship in time for our departure was a peek into the National Pantheon Church of Santa Engracia.

National Pantheon Church of Santa Engracia

National Pantheon Church of Santa Engracia

National Pantheon Church of Santa Engracia

View outside the National Pantheon Church of Santa Engracia

As we sailed away, I imagined the feelings of the sailors who accompanied Vasco da Gama centuries ago as they departed from Lisbon to sail into the unknown. They, like me, likely hoped they would return to see this beautiful city again.

Based on events from May 2016.

Categories: cruise, Europe, Uncategorized | Tags: 25th of April Bridge, Belem, Belem Tower, Cristo Rei, Lisbon, Monastery of the Hieronymites, Monument to the Discoveries, National Pantheon Church of Santa Engracia, Portugal, Tram 28 | Leave a comment

7 Hours on the Rock

Posted on January 10, 2017 by lclalor

One of the reasons I chose this Holland America cruise was because Gibraltar was a port of call on the itinerary and I was eager to visit the Rock. I wished we’d be in port longer than 7 hours but as it turned out, that was only one of the challenges.

First, a little historical context: In 711 AD Muslim General Tarik-ibn-Ziyad invaded the Rock taking it from the Visigoths. The Rock came to be called Jebel Tarik (Mountain of Tarik) which evolved to Gibraltar. The Moors were finally expelled from Spain in 1492 by Ferdinand and Isabella and in 1501 Queen Isabella decreed that Gibraltar would henceforth be part of Spain. Over 200 years later, the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713 ceded Gibraltar to Britain and today, 300 years later, it remains a territory of Britain in spite of Spain’s desire to have it back. Citizens of Gibraltar have voted overwhelmingly to remain in the UK but following the recent successful Brexit vote, Spain promises to reopen the issue.

Today around 30,000 residents occupy Gibraltar and an estimated 6000 people cross the border each day for work. Interestingly, the busiest road in Gibraltar crosses the border and also crosses the only runway at the airport so the road has to be closed whenever a plane lands. You can see it on the map below. (I’m not sure I’d want to fly into this airport!) The climate is temperate which attracts tourists along with its robust gambling industry. Other top tourist attractions include the views from the Rock, the Barbary macaques, the 32 miles of tunnels running through the Rock, the Mediterranean Steps, and St. Michael’s Cave.

Rick and Jim as we arrived at the port of Gibraltar

Our ship arrived at 7 am on Sunday, May 1. The following day was a bank holiday so I’m not sure whether businesses were closed because it was Sunday or because the next day was a bank holiday but lots of shops, other than souvenir shops were closed. Since we didn’t have a lot of time, we headed straight to the cable car, an aerial tram, to take us up to the Upper Rock Nature Reserve at the top of the Rock. They begin operation at 9:30 am and we were in the first car of the day.

The views on the 6-minute ride to the top were mostly obscured by fog. We could see little below us but nothing above. Unfortunately, we didn’t see the iconic view of the Rock of Gibraltar through the clouds at the top nor did we catch a glimpse of it all day. As you can see on the map above, the craggy view would be best from the northeast and especially from Eastern Beach but our ship was docked in the harbor to the west.

View from the cable car to the top of the Rock

Cable car to the top of the Rock

The Barbary apes (macaques) greeted us as we exited the cable car, mitigating our disappointment over the foggy views. Admittedly, this was my favorite experience in Gibraltar and I took lots of pictures but you only have to scroll through some of my favorites.

Barbary ape at the top of the Rock

Barbary ape and Lori

Barbary ape

No shame

Ape accosting a visitor

More of the same

Rick and Lori with Barbary apes

Jim and I with the Barbary apes

One of the senior apes

We tried to wait out the fog in the Top of the Rock Cafe but the fog outlasted us.

Rick, me, Lori having coffee in the cafe at the Top of the Rock

There is no definitive answer as to how the Barbary apes came to inhabit Gibraltar but theories include a tunnel under the Strait of Gibraltar to Morrocco and escaping apes owned by sailors visiting the port. Now there are some 230 apes living here but the population declined to just 7 during WWII. Legend has it that Britain will control Gibraltar as long as the macaques remain and consequently, Winston Churchill ordered the population restored. Today the ape population is managed by the Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society.

We decided to walk down from the top of the Rock in hopes that the fog would lift to provide us with views.

Walking down from the top of the Rock

Road walking down the rock of Gibraltar

Caroline’s Battery, Rock of Gibraltar

View from the Rock

Lori with the view lost from the west

Jim and I with the iconic view somewhere above us

Moorish Castle

Originally, we planned to visit the Great Siege Tunnels which were the opposite direction from St. Michael’s Cave and the Mediterranean Steps. In retrospect, I may have switched that. When we arrived at the tunnels, we realized we didn’t have enough time for the tour and continued down the Rock. We had nice views of the Moorish Castle dating from the 8th century AD but a trip down the Mediterranean Steps which were restored in 2007 may have been an even better experience.

Once we reached the bottom, a pub stop was in order, since we were, after all, in British territory with a powerful thirst after our hike.

Hoisting a pint

Gibraltar definitely has that quintessential British feel and a couple Anglophiles like Lori and me enthusiastically soaked up the charm.

Gibraltar

Cathedral of St. Mary the Crowned

As we made our way back to the ship, we discovered May Day celebrations beginning in Casemate Square. Had we the time, we’d have stuck around longer to enjoy the show.

May Day celebration, Casemate Square, Gibraltar

When we arrived back at the ship, we learned the second largest private yacht in the world, owned by a Russian tycoon, was in the harbor so, of course, I got a photo. Fuel is reputedly cheap in Gibraltar so they stopped by to fill up. (You can also spot the yacht it in an earlier photo of the harbor.)

Second largest yacht in the world

As we sailed away, that cloud continued to hover above Gibraltar, like an old friend unable to bid us farewell.

View of Gibraltar from the west

I believe a return to Gibraltar may well be in my future since I have some unfinished business, namely a view and a photo that look like this:

Free photo of the Rock of Gibraltar from the public domain

Based on events of May 2016.

Categories: cruise, Europe, Uncategorized | Tags: Gibraltar, Holland America Line, ms Rotterdam, Rock of Gibraltar | Leave a comment

My Tale of the Alhambra

Posted on January 3, 2017 by lclalor

With 8500 visitors each day, the Alhambra is Spain’s most visited monument. If you go, I strongly advise you to purchase tickets in advance. You can buy tickets onsite the day of your visit but the lines are long and the number sold is limited, so if you’re not there before 8 am, forget it. Each ticket has a specified time for entry into the Nasrid Palace to control the number of visitors to 300 each half-hour, and you must arrive within the designated time or admission is denied. In my last post, I explained why we generally don’t book excursions through the cruise line but there are exceptions and our day trip to the Alhambra was one of them. Spain Day Tours told us they could not get tickets for April 30 so we paid $200 for our cruise excursion rather than miss out.

Our ship docked in the port of Malaga at 8 am and we departed soon thereafter on the 2.5-hour bus ride to Granada. After a rest stop midway, we arrived in Granada late in the morning.

Our guide shows us a map at the entrance to the Alhambra

Originally a military fortress to house troops in the Alcazaba, the Alhambra (Red Castle in Arabic) was rebuilt in the 1300’s to add palaces and the medina or court city. Home to the sultans of the Islamic Nasrid dynasty, their rule in Spain ended in 1492 when Ferdinand and Isabel defeated the Moors to reestablish Christian rule. Following the rule of Ferdinand and Isabel and the Reconquista, Holy Roman Emperor Charles V began construction of the Charles V Palace in 1527 and added other Christian elements to the Alhambra. By the time Washington Irving took up residence in 1829 to write Tales of the Alhambra, the place had fallen into ruin. Fortunately, in 1870 Spain declared the Alhambra a national monument beginning the protection and restoration of this important historical complex and culminating in its designation in 1984 as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

View of the walls around the Alhambra

Outsides the walls of the Alhambra as we approach the Gate of Justice

Looking down the path we walked up to the Gate of Justice to enter the Alhambra

The Gate of Justice entrance to the Alhambra

Plaque commemorating Washington Irving outside the Gate of Justice

A hand, Islamic decoration above the Gate of Justice

A key, another Islamic symbol with Arabic script above on the Gate of Justice

View from inside the Alhambra overlooking the outer walls

Ornamentation within the Alhambra

Just as we entered the area of the Nasrid Palace where the time of entry is strictly controlled, our friend Rick had a malfunction on his headphone that was furnished to better hear our tour guide. The rubber earpiece detached and descended into his ear canal where it lodged beyond the reach of desperate fingers. He announced he was leaving to seek medical attention. Our guide had a hard time understanding what he was telling her and once she understood, she had an even harder time explaining it to the staff guarding the entrance who were determined to keep out anyone without the proper ticket. None of us were sure whether they would allow him back in upon his return. Our bridge instructor from the cruise ship, Jeff, shepherded Rick back to our group upon his return after medical personnel used tweezers to pluck the renegade rubber piece from his ear.

I asked Jeff, a retired Navy captain, if he was somehow responsible for our group. He told me the previous day Susie had gotten separated from the tour group when she stopped to purchase a souvenir causing her husband, Charles, considerable worry and consternation. Jeff found the lost sheep and returned her to the fold and now just liked to keep an eye on the herd. (My words, not his.)

Charles V Palace in the Alhambra with Jeff in the pink shirt at the rear of our group

Court of the Myrtles, Alhambra

Ornamentation

Decorative art in a niche in the Court of Myrtles, Alhambra

Throne Room, Alhambra

Tile floor in Throne Room, Alhambra

The Court of the Lions, Alhambra

Our tour group with Susie and Charles listening to the guide and Rick on the right after the ear piece incident

Hall of Abencerrages, Alhambra

Ceiling in Hall of Abencerrages, Alhambra

Partal Palace, the oldest palace in the Alhambra

St Mary Church, Alhambra

We didn’t have nearly enough time to fully appreciate the Alhambra and we saw just a fraction of the splendid and majestic complex on our tour. At the end of the tour, the guide offered to lead anyone interested to the Generalife, the nearby extensive gardens where royalty escaped the drudgery of the Alhambra. (It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.) We, of course, joined the group.

Walk to the Generalife

Generalife Gardens

Patio of the Irrigation Ditch, Generalife

Generalife

Jim and I enjoy the view

Generalife

Lori, Rick, Laura, and Jim at Generalife

A buffet lunch followed our tour before we began the long ride back to Malaga and our home at sea, the ms Rotterdam. In spite of the confusing and complicated history, the crowds jostling to get a view, and the tightly controlled access, the Alhambra is definitely a five star historical and cultural monument not to be missed.

As Washington Irving penned in his Tales of the Alhambra, “Such is the Alhambra—a Moslem pile in the midst of a Christian land, an Oriental palace amidst the Gothic edifices of the West, an elegant memento of a brave, intelligent, and graceful people who conquered, ruled and passed away.”

Based on events from April 2016.

Categories: cruise, Europe, Spain, Uncategorized, UNESCO | Tags: Alhambra, Generalife, Granada, Malaga | 2 Comments

Day Trip to Sevilla, Spain

Posted on December 20, 2016 by lclalor

Many cruise passengers take an excursion to Sevilla, Spain from the port of Cádiz and we were no exception. Obviously, history nerds like Jim and me wanted to see the Real Alcázar, and yes, you guessed it, it’s another UNESCO World Heritage site and so is the cathedral and the bell tower that was once a minaret. If you’re new to UNESCO World Heritage, these are places deemed to be of universal importance which you can read more about here.

Holland America offered an all-day excursion to Sevilla that included the Alcázar for almost $200 per person. Our experience with cruise ship excursions isn’t terrible but they’re nearly always more expensive, there’s often a stop somewhere to sell us something we don’t need or want, and we’re usually fed a mediocre meal. Instead, we opted for an all-day tour through Spain Day Tours, which cost a mere 69 euros ($75) with no meal or stop to shop although we had free time to do both on our own.

The bus picked us up at the cruise port and our guide provided lots of commentary during the hour and a half ride to Sevilla. We learned that Spain is the second largest producer of almonds in the world behind the U.S., and Andalusia is one of the major locations for that crop. Even more interestingly, cork oak trees grow in this area, and incidentally, they also grow in Portugal (but no one told us about it while we were there). Harvested every nine years without harming the tree, the cork comes from the bark. I took a poor photo of cork oak trees out the bus window but I want to share it nevertheless.

I also found a photo in the public domain that shows a tree after the cork was harvested. The white area is the bark and the red is where it’s been removed.

Upon our arrival in Sevilla, our first stop was the Plaza de España, built for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929. Plaza de España refers to both the plaza and the magnificent, semi-circular structure anchored by towers at either end connected by porticos. The building is constructed of brick decorated with azulejos (colored ceramic tiles).

Plaza de España showing one of the towers

Plaza de España with the other tower

Portico at Plaza de España

Columns on portico with azulejo decoration

Along the front of the building are 48 alcoves representing the provinces of Spain with benches and murals made of azulejos. Our guide showed us the alcove for Huelva, the province where Cristopher Columbus set sail for the New World.

Alcoves for the provinces along the front of the building

Alcove for the province of Huelva with mural

A canal, with four bridges representing the four ancients kingdoms of Spain, follows the curve of the building.

The canal at Plaza de España

Azulejo (ceramic tile) decoration on a bridge at Plaza de España

Following this impressive introduction to Sevilla, we walked through the old Jewish Quarter, today called Barrio Santa Cruz, to experience the charming and historic atmosphere of the old city.

Walk through the old Jewish Quarter, today called Barrio Santa Cruz

Barrio Santa Cruz, Sevilla

Barrio Santa Cruz

Barrio Santa Cruz

American author, Washington Irving, spent eight years in Spain and wrote several books about the country including Tales from the Alhambra, published in 1832. This plaque commemorates his time in Sevilla and his love of Spain.

Plaque honoring Washington Irving, Sevilla

Seeing the abundant orange trees lining the squares in this neighborhood as we had seen them in Cádiz, we inquired whether they were good to eat. Our guide explained that the bitter orange is not good to eat as is, but the bitter or Sevilla orange is used to make marmalade. You can tell if it’s a bitter orange by the leaf. If the leaf has a little bump at the base, it’s bitter.

Sevilla orange

Bitter Sevilla orange with bump at the base

Before a tour of the Real Alcázar, some historical context may be helpful. The Romans ruled the area of Sevilla from the second century, followed by the Vandals and then the Visigoths. The Moors, or Muslims, conquered the area in 711 and ruled Sevilla until 1248 when the Christians under Ferdinand III drove them out. The historical period called the Reconquista, in which Islam was expelled and Christian domination restored, wasn’t finally completed throughout Spain until 1492.

The Alcázar was originally built in Islamic style during the 10th century to house the Moorish governor. Over the years, however, the palace was rebuilt, restored, and expanded combining both Islamic and Christian elements to create an architectural style called Mudéjar.

Today, the Spanish royal family stays here when they are in Sevilla. Luckily for us, they were not in residence because the palace is closed to the public when they are present. The palace also served as a film location for several episodes in the fifth season of the HBO series, Game of Thrones. Maybe some of my photos will look familiar to enthusiasts.

Entrance to Real Alcázar

Patio del León, Alcázar

Patio de la Monteria, Real Alcázar

Real Alcázar

Sala de la Justicia, part of the original palace

Baños Doña Maria de Padilla, actually a water tank at Alcázar

Gardens at Real Alcázar

Gardens at Real Alcázar

Following our tour of Real Alcázar, we had free time to tour the cathedral, shop, or get a bite to eat. We chose to find some tapas.

Another stop for Tapas

We planned to see the Santa Maria de la Sene Cathedral of Sevilla, the burial site for Christopher Columbus. When we saw the lines, however, we didn’t want to spend our precious time standing in line so we contented ourselves with viewing the outside.

The Giralda, originally a minaret for an Islamic mosque, today it is the bell tower for the cathedral

Santa Maria de la Sede Cathedral in Sevilla

Santa Maria de la Sede Cathedral, Sevilla

El Giraldillo Weathervane outside Santa Maria de la Sene Cathedral, Sevilla

Santa Maria de la Sene Cathedral

Santa Maria de la Sene Cathedral

I’m sure there’s plenty more to see in Sevilla but our day trip was a satisfying introduction.

Based on events from April 2016.

Categories: cruise, Europe, Spain, Uncategorized, UNESCO | Tags: almonds, Andalusia, azulejos, Barrio Santa Cruz, cork, Game of Thrones, Holland America, Moors, Mudejár, Plaza de España, Real Alcázar, Sevilla, Sevilla oranges, Washington Irving | 2 Comments

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