Oceania (Australia & New Zealand)

Down Under at the Royal Botanic Garden Sydney

You may think a trip to Manly Beach, lunch at the Fortune of War, and a tour of the iconic Sydney Opera House was enough for day 2 in Sydney but we weren’t finished yet. The opera house is adjacent to the Royal Botanic Garden so following our visit to the opera house, we headed that direction entering the garden through the Queen Elizabeth II Gate.

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Queen Elizabeth II Gate

As we entered the gate, I inquired, “What’s a bittame?” and Jim responded derisively, “Laura, that’s BITE ME!” It never occurred to me they would actually display a pejorative command in a proper garden but we’ve laughed over my naiveté several times since.

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Royal Botanic Garden, Sydney

According to the NSW Office of Environment & Heritage, the Royal Botanic Garden is a 72 acre (29 hectares) haven surrounded by 126 acres (51 hectares) of open parkland called the Domain. Located between the CBD (Central Business District) and the harbor, the garden was established in 1816 but wasn’t designated royal until 1959. Admission is free and the garden welcomes over 3 million visitors each year. We strolled the paved trail hugging the coast of Farmers Cove for about a mile (1.3km) to Mrs. MacQuarie’s Chair. Many trails lead off to other areas of the park, as you can see on the map below but, with limited time, we confined our exploration to the foreshore promenade. (Our route is marked in red below.)

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Along the way, we paused frequently to read markers identifying various plants and to enjoy the spectacular views of Sydney Harbor.

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Mrs. MacQuarie’s Chair was named for the wife of Major-General Lachlan Macquarie, Governor of New South Wales from 1810-1821. Mrs. MacQuarie loved to walk out to the point to enjoy views of the harbor so her husband had a bench carved from sandstone rock to provide her with a resting spot. The inscription carved into the rock says, “Be it thus recorded that the road, round the inside of the Government Domain called, Mrs. Macquarie’s Road, so named by the Governor on account of her having originally, planned it, Measuring 3 miles and 377 yards, was finally completed on the 13th day of June 1816.”

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Mrs. MacQuarie’s Point

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Mrs. MacQuarie’s Chair

By happenstance, we discovered St. George OpenAir Cinema on our walk to the point. The movie that evening was a premiere screening of Everybody Knows, starring Penelope Cruz and Javier Bardem. People were lined up for blocks for the gate opening at 6:15. After an action-packed day of sight-seeing, we didn’t feel like waiting until 8:30 for a movie with subtitles. I wished we could have seen Mary Queen of Scots on February 13 but, alas, our cruise departed that day. Other movies during our stay included Bohemian Rhapsody and Instant Family, both movies I’d already seen.

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St. George OpenAir Cinema

This venue operates during the summer months and offers grandstand seating and food and drink including alcohol at tables before the show. We saw many people with coolers and learned you can bring your own food and drink but no alcohol. You may eat your food in the grandstand but the venue tables are reserved for customers purchasing food and/or drink.

The screen is raised over the water for shows and lowered when not in use. The red arrow on the photo below points to the lowered screen. When I return to Sydney, this experience is definitely on my list.

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As we retraced our steps to our condo, Jim stopped briefly on Argyle Street where the Sydney Markets were closing up and snagged some free samples of kangaroo, wild boar, crocodile, and emu. Tired after a long day, we prepared a light supper before getting to bed early. Join us next time for our first activity on day 3 in Sydney — a walk across the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

 

Based on events in February 2019.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Categories: Australia, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Down Under at the Sydney Opera House

Following a leisurely lunch at Fortune of War on day 2 in Sydney, it was time to see the Sydney Opera House up close. As we strolled toward the opera house along Circular Quay, we enjoyed more of the giant lanterns for the Sydney Lunar Festival celebrating the Chinese New Year.

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The weather was hot but the people sitting outside at Opera Bar pictured below seemed to be enjoying the live music, a cold drink, and the outdoor mist cooling system. I’ve seen outdoor heaters but not coolers and I was immediately a fan in 90F+ (32C+) temperatures!

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Outdoor beer garden at Opera Bar

I had no idea of the drama surrounding the construction of the Sydney Opera House until we went on the tour. We hadn’t planned to take the $40 tour because you can wander around the facility on your own for free. Instead, we wanted to attend a performance at the opera house, but, unfortunately, nothing scheduled during our visit appealed to us. So, in the end, we decided to take the tour to get the back story. This is some of what we heard and saw.

The Sydney Opera House is located on Bennelong Point which was originally called Tubowgule by the Gadigal people of the Eora Nation. Tubowgule means “where the knowledge waters meet” and the site was considered a sacred meeting place by the Aboriginals. In the 1950s, this site was selected as the location for the new opera house.

Danish architect Jørn Utzon’s design was chosen from 233 proposals following an international contest that paid £5000 for the winning design. Construction began in 1959 under the guidance of Utzon, with an estimate of 4 years to complete the project at a cost of $7 million. In the end, it cost $102 million and took 14 years to complete. Engineering challenges dogged the project. First, the ground where the building would be erected was unstable and the solution busted the budget early on. Second, the shell-shaped roof went through several iterations until a structurally sound design was found.

Finally, in 1966, delays and costs strained the relationship between Utzon and the government to the point that Utzon threatened to quit and his resignation was accepted. Although Utzon believed the opera house could not be completed without him, it was. Sadly, he would never return to see the magnificent result of his work.

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The pink sculpture is a lunar lantern celebrating the Chinese New Year and the year of the pig

With seven performance venues in the Sydney Opera House, the Concert Hall, the Joan Sutherland Theater, Drama Theater, Playhouse, the Studio, the Utzon Room, and the Forecourt, over 2000 performances occur each year. Photography inside the performance venues is allowed only when no sets or performers are present so I purchased the souvenir book which includes the same photo of Jim and me superimposed over various photos of the opera house.

The Concert Hall is the largest venue with seating for 2679 guests. The mechanical action organ with 10,154 pipes is the largest in the world and only one person in the world can tune it. I thought they needed to engage in succession planning pretty quickly. This is the venue where Arnold Schwarzenegger won his final body-building contest in 1980. Luckily, we were allowed to photograph inside.

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The Concert Hall

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Our souvenir photo inside The Concert Hall

The Joan Sutherland Theater, seating 1507 guests, was renamed in 2012 for the famous Australian soprano who died in 2010. After a live chicken landed on a cellist during the opera, Boris Godunov, in the 1980s, today, a net covers the 70 musician orchestra pit. Due to an innovative design, sets and props are stored below the stage rather than in the wings and are moved into place by mechanical lifts.

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Joan Sutherland portrait outside the eponymous theater

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Inside the Joan Sutherland Theater

The Drama Theatre, The Playhouse, and The Studio are smaller venues accommodating 544, 398, and 300 guests, respectively. These venues are used for theatrical performances, dance, and even circus acts. The Utzon Room is the only interior space designed by the architect before he left the project. Seating only 200 guests, the intimate space is used often for chamber music performances. Finally, the Forecourt is an outdoor plaza in front of the opera house that is the largest venue with a capacity of 6000.

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Forecourt of Sydney Opera House

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Forecourt of Sydney Opera House

The interior spaces outside the performance venues were also impressive and the views through 6223 square meters of glass were spectacular.   IMG_5685IMG_5689IMG_5690IMG_5720

One million sixty-six thousand six roof tiles cover the exterior of the sails (roof). Although the opera house looks white, the tiles are actually off-white because white would be blinding. You can see a closer view below.

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Exterior close-up view of Sydney Opera House roof

The Sydney Opera House is such an extraordinary architectural masterpiece, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007. Currently, the opera house receives over 8 million visitors each year and after our visit, I understand why.

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Based on events from February 2019.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Categories: Australia, Uncategorized, UNESCO | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Down Under at Manly Beach

We planned to take the ferry to Manly Beach on Sunday morning, killing two birds with one stone. The ferry would provide us with a highly recommended harbor tour in addition to transporting us to the famed beach suburb of Sydney. The advantage of going Sunday is the price for the ferry is just $2.50 on Sundays although the crowds are definitely denser.

When we arrived at Wharf 5 on Circular Quay, we asked where to purchase tickets and we were directed to the ticket machines inside the nearby train station. Unfortunately, we neglected to inquire how to get a discounted ticket and paid full price for a single-use roundtrip ticket. We later found out we needed to buy an Opal card to take advantage of the discount. We made no mistake by getting an early start, however. We beat the crowds and walked right onto the ferry and found a seat for the 30-minute scenic ride. (You can take the fast ferry which arrives in just 18 minutes but we preferred the leisurely ride.)

Sydney Harbor is a tourist attraction in and of itself. The largest natural harbor in the world, Sydney Harbor attracts boaters, kayakers, divers, recreational fisherman, and over 350 cruise ships each year.

The views from the ferry provided a new perspective of Australia’s largest city. The skyline of the CBD (central business district) was especially impressive and the views of the Sydney Opera House, the Harbour Bridge, and the Royal Botanic Garden delighted us as well.

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Sydney from the harbor

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Sydney Opera House

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Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge

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Jim with the Royal Botanic Garden in the background

I love lighthouses and the Hornby Lighthouse is a red and white striped charmer. Constructed in 1858, the lighthouse is located in Sydney Harbour National Park with many hiking trails through the bushland. With more time, a visit would likely have been on my list.

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Hornby Lighthouse

As we approached Manly Cove, we noted many pleasure craft, an indication it’s a popular spot for boaters, too.

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Manly Cove

Our ferry pulled up to the Manly Wharf and we followed the stream of foot traffic off the boat and along the Manly Corso, a pedestrian street connecting the wharf to the beach. Originally built as a boardwalk and named for the Via del Corso in Rome, the street is filled with shops and restaurants.

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Manly Wharf

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Manly Corso

The beach is lined with pine trees and picnic tables in the shade for those, like us, who want to avoid sunburn.

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Jim and Lori

Plenty of sun-worshippers had already staked out their spots on the beach, however.

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Manly Beach

The Spit Bridge to Manly Walk, one of the many stunning coastal walks around Sydney, ends at the Manly Wharf. But instead, we strolled along the Manly Parade which follows the coast from Manly Beach to Shelly Beach. We didn’t go as far as Shelly Beach but we enjoyed some stunning views, nonetheless.

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Jim and Lori on the Manly Parade

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Manly Beach from the Manly Parade

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View from the Manly Parade

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Return stroll on the Manly Parade

Although we only went into the water up to our ankles, we were wet to our waists just after the photos below when a wave drenched us.  We also enjoyed watching those surfers riding the waves behind us.

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Jim and me

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By early afternoon we were ready to take the return ferry to Circular Quay. As I took a photo of a sister ferry passing the Harbour Bridge, we noticed the line of people on top who had climbed the bridge. I’ve enlarged the second photo below so you can see them better. It’s the one regret Jim has from this trip. He decided not to do the climb and has regretted it ever since. The views are incredible from up there but you can’t take anything including cameras with you. Since I’m guilty of thinking it doesn’t happen unless it’s recorded on Instagram, I was content to walk the bridge and I’ll share those photos later. We may have to go back for Jim to do the climb, however.

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One of the ferries on Sydney Harbor

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Back in Sydney, it was time to try another pub. Fortune of War, established in 1828, is Sydney’s oldest pub. With live music in the middle of the afternoon, customers seeking a pint, or a late lunch, or both, packed the place and we gladly joined them.

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Rick, Lori, and Jim outside Fortune of War (Note wisdom on the chalkboard)

We had plenty more planned for day 2 in Sydney so come back and tour the Sydney Opera House with us.

 

Based on events from February 2019.

 

 

 

 

Categories: Australia, Uncategorized | Tags: , , | 3 Comments

Planning to Cruise Australia

Our visit to Australia in 2017 was cut short (you can read about it here) and I’ve been watching ever since for a repeat offer of that cruise itinerary.  If you look at cruises of Australia, you’ll notice most itineraries include many ports in New Zealand and very few in Australia. Because Australia is such a large country and I wanted to see more than just one city, I always thought a cruise would be an efficient way to maximize our time and see more. Our 19-day cruise in 2017 began in Auckland, New Zealand with a stop in Bay of Islands before heading to Australia with stops in 6 cities along the eastern and northern coasts, followed by stops in Indonesia and Malaysia and ending in Singapore.

The itinerary now offered by Norwegian Cruise Line has changed somewhat. The cruise no longer begins in New Zealand which we visited during our 2017 cruise so that was fine with us. Malaysia is replaced by Semarang, Indonesia, on the itinerary which was a disappointment to me (and an even bigger disappointment when we saw Semarang but more on that in a future post.) This was the itinerary:

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I booked the cruise on April 27, 2018, when the price was $6352.80 for an ocean view cabin for my husband and me. In 2017, we paid just under $5000 so the price seemed a little high but I knew if the price came down, I could rebook. I checked periodically and finally in August, the price went down to $5834.36. Then September 1, the price went down to $5134.36 and finally toward the end of September it hit $4187.20. Each time I rebooked at the new price keeping the same cabin and our original amenities which included free internet minutes and a $50 credit per person for a shore excursion at each port. If you haven’t done this before, you call the cruise line and say, “I see the price for my cruise has gone down. Can you help me rebook at the new price?” Simple but we saved a lot of $$$.

Fortunately, we saved on our cruise fare because I was sure an open jaw airfare to Sydney and back from Singapore would be expensive. I decided to check on a multi-city fare with a 3 day stop in Tokyo to visit our friend, Tomo. (More on Tomo later, too.) I could hardly believe my good fortune when I found this itinerary on Delta for the rock bottom price of $1246.43 each. Tip: When you see a good price, don’t hesitate; book it because it probably won’t be there long!

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With cruise and airfare booked, it was time to work on accommodations in Sydney, Singapore, and Tokyo.

Sidenote: Many people have asked me whether I use a travel agent for my trips. I research and book everything myself. I enjoy the planning part of my travels nearly as much as the travel and I have a vested interest in finding the best deals.

My brother and his wife visited Sydney in 2018 so I asked them whether they would recommend their Airbnb accommodations. They heartily endorsed the three-bedroom condo located in Miller’s Point in the heart of “The Rocks” but cautioned us there wasn’t aircon. They were there in April in the middle of a heatwave but we thought a heatwave in February was unlikely and the location just couldn’t be beaten. It was pricey but we were traveling with friends and hoped a third couple would join us to share the cost. In the end, it was just the two couples but we were all glad we stayed there in spite of temperatures in the 90s, no screens on the windows with resulting mosquito bites, and a cost of $442 per night.

 

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Jim, Rick, and Lori outside our Airbnb in Sydney

Next, I looked at hotels in Singapore. In 2017 I reserved a room at the Holiday Inn Express but had to cancel it when our trip ended at Sydney. I couldn’t find a better price including breakfast in a better location so, against my better judgment, I booked it again. I usually avoid staying at American chains when traveling abroad, preferring to experience local culture and accommodations instead. This hotel was gorgeous and you’ll see more of it in future posts.

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Interior of Holiday Inn Express, Singapore

Finally, I researched Tokyo lodging. Tomo was staying with us in the US at the time so I had his guidance in selecting a hotel. In spite of that, when he looked at the hotel I booked he said the hotel I selected was in the area where Japanese mafia or yakuza could be found. Sure enough, I read reviews indicating the red light district was nearby! He directed me to another area where we enjoyed the Mitsui Garden Hotel immensely.

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Mitsui Garden Hotel in Tokyo

In between searches for lodging, Lori and I looked at cruise excursions and quickly decided several were not to be missed–snorkeling at the Great Barrier Reef, a visit to Komodo Island to see the dragons, and the opportunity to hold a koala. We also scheduled a tour to the Blue Mountains from Sydney. We decided we would schedule any other tours or excursions as we went.

Last but not least, I attacked the challenge of packing for a month in a carry-on suitcase. Fortunately, we had laundry facilities at our condo in Sydney and our platinum status with NCL provided us with laundry service onboard but careful selection was important, nevertheless. When I mentioned my packing issues to Lori, she said, “You did a packing post before this cruise two years ago. Why don’t you just look at that?” You can see that post here. When I looked at it, I discovered I had selected almost the same clothes this time around! But this time, I decided a month-long journey required more than 3 ounces of shampoo, conditioner, hairspray, and sunscreen so I decided to buy those items in Sydney.

We were ready. But of course, any time you plan to travel in Iowa in February, you have weather issues and this trip was no exception. Two days before our departure, we received an email warning us of impending weather issues that could affect our flights. I spent some time researching options and in the end, we decided to travel to Des Moines a day early and let the chips fall where they may. After a nightmarish drive through ice and snow to Des Moines, our flights the following day were unaffected.

Come back next time for our arrival in Sydney.

 

Based on events in February 2019.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Categories: Australia, cruise, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Bay of Islands, New Zealand

Named Bay of Islands by Captain Cook in 1769 for its 144 islands, this archipelago was previously discovered in the 10th century by the Polynesian explorer, Kupe, who named it Aotearoa.  Inhabited by the Maori when Europeans arrived, today the area is known as the birthplace of the nation for the treaty signed by Maori chiefs and the British.

When our cruise ship, the Norwegian Star, anchored around 8 a.m., we were on the first tender boat to Waitangi Pier. We were especially keen to see the town of Russell, so we immediately took the complimentary shuttle from Waitangi Pier to Paihia Wharf where we caught the ferry to Russell. The map below shows where cruise ships anchor, Waitangi Pier, and the towns of Paihia and Russell.

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Map of Waitangi, Paihia, and Russell

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Paihia Wharf

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View of Paihia from the wharf

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View from the ferry to Russell

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Norwegian Star from the ferry

Once called the ‘hell hole of the Pacific,” it’s hard to imagine the drinking, brawling, and prostitution which were commonplace in historic Russell, the largest whaling port in the southern hemisphere and the first capital of New Zealand. Today, little of its wicked past is evident in this charming seaside town.

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Approach to Russell

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Russell, NZ

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Because it’s flightless, the national bird is threatened especially by dogs

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Russell Wharf from the Strand

The Duke of Marlborough Hotel was the first licensed bar in New Zealand. I’m sure the old Victorian has many stories to tell.

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Jim at the Duke of Marlborough Hotel

Next to the hotel is the former Customs House and Police Station, today a private home.

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This majestic Morton Bay Fig Tree was planted by E.B. Laing, the first customs collector who served from 1870 to 1886.

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The oldest remaining church in New Zealand, Christ Church, built in 1836, still holds services every Sunday and since we arrived just as services began, we attended.

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Interior of Christ Church

A bullet hole from the Maori Wars is still evident on the exterior of the church.

 

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Remnant of Maori Wars

 

We strolled around town; I shopped for a Christmas ornament as a souvenir; and we stopped at Sally’s for coffee.

 

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Sally’s

 

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Cannon at Russell

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When we headed back to catch the return ferry to Paihia, I spied these two fishing from the pier. We also watched young people jumping off the pier into the water for a swim causing me to wonder whether they scared away all the fish. I guess that’s why they call it fishing rather than catching.

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Ferry that runs from Paihia to Russell

 

On the short ride back to Paihia, we enjoyed more beautiful views of the islands dotting the turquoise waters.

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Back in Paihia, we wandered around a bit. A local art and craft show briefly attracted my attention but Jim, not much of a shopper, stayed seated while people watching…and bird watching. A sign announced the red-billed gull as the most photographed bird in the sea bird capital of the world (New Zealand) so of course, I had to take several photos. Normally a prolific species, the gull has suffered a decline of over 50% in recent years. The sign admonished, “Love them. Protect them.” Okay.

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Red-billed gull

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Sculpture at Paihia

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Water view from Paihia

We hopped on the complimentary shuttle back to Waitangi for a stop at the treaty grounds. It was here the Maori chiefs and the British signed the Treaty of Waitangi establishing New Zealand as a British colony in 1840. Interestingly, the Maori version and the English version contain different language. The English text gives Britain sovereignty but the Maori text translates to governance which the Maori interpreted to allow self-determination. Both texts are currently used to make present-day decisions.

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Waitangi Treaty Grounds

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Copy of the treaty which is now housed in Wellington

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Waitangi Treaty Grounds

As we walked back to the pier to catch a tender boat back to our ship, I took a few more photos of this incredible paradise.

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View from Waitangi

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View from Waitangi

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Photo from our tender boat, Bay of Islands, NZ

 

Based on events from February 2017.

 

 

 

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Auckland War Memorial Museum

The Auckland Museum was founded in 1852 as the first museum in New Zealand,. After several moves through the years to increase space for exhibits, the new and renamed Auckland War Memorial Museum opened in 1929 on the highest point in Auckland’s oldest park, the Auckland Domain.

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Auckland Domain

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View of Sky Tower from Auckland War Memorial Museum

We set off on foot with umbrellas in our backpack in case of rain.  Fortunately, we arrived dry at the museum in spite of the dark clouds that dogged us for most of our stay in Auckland. After a brief discussion, we decided to purchase the Moa package for NZ$55 (US$40) which included museum entry, highlights tour, and Maori cultural performance.

The highlights tour, while short, oriented us to the best exhibits in the museum. Without it, we may have missed important highlights simply due to the size of the museum. After the tour, we went back to spend more time in areas that interested us most.

We began on level 2 with New Zealand’s War Stories including exhibits from WWI, WWII, New Zealand civil wars, and other conflicts of the 19th and 20th centuries. The WWI Hall of Memories was especially moving to me. New Zealand sent more troops per capita to fight in WWI than any other country which meant every family in the country was personally affected by the war. Nearly all of the 18,166 who died were buried overseas and almost one-third of them are buried in unknown graves.

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WWI Hall of Memories with Roll of Honour listing those who died in service from Auckland Province

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WWI Sanctuary with bronze wreath of kawakawa leaves, a symbol of mourning

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Stained glass ceiling with coats of arms of all British dominions serving in WWI

The Pacific Lifeways gallery contained exhibits with information about island groups in the Pacific. Of particular interest to me was our guide’s explanation of the spread of plants and animals throughout the Pacific which indicated the migration patterns of the people in the area. New Zealand was the last area discovered and settled, probably as late as 1300 A.D. by Polynesians from Southeast Asia who became the indigenous Maori people.

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Migration routes in the Pacific

A carved statue of Kave, an evil goddess from the island of Nukuoro, greeted us at the entrance to the gallery. She was brought to New Zealand in the 1870s by a trader.

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Carved statue of Kave

An outrigger canoe in the Pacific Masterpieces gallery came from the Solomon Islands as a gift from the Melanesian Mission.

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The Red Feather Cloak from Hawaii was worn only by the highest chief for religious ceremonies or in war. The nearby sign explained a cloak similar to this belonging to King Kamehameha in Hawaii contained a half million feathers from as many as 80,000 birds.

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Red Feather Cloak

All of level 1 in the museum is devoted to natural history. The highlights on this floor for me were the moa and the kiwi. The tallest known bird, this 1913 reconstruction of the extinct moa is from the South Island.

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Reconstructed moa

The kiwi is the unofficial national symbol for New Zealand and the nickname for New Zealanders. They are unique to New Zealand but how they arrived is unclear since they can’t fly.  Because they can’t fly, the kiwi is under constant threat especially by predators such as dogs and the population has shrunk to around 68,000.

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You can listen to the kiwi here.

The most surprising exhibit to me was the axe used by Sir Edmund Hillary in his 1953 ascent of Mt. Everest. The famous Aucklander died here in 2008.

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Mountain axe and painting of Sir Edmund Hillary

I especially wanted to learn more about the indigenous people of New Zealand, the Maori, in our visit to this museum and our desire was satisfied. There are over 1000 artifacts original to the Maori. The gateway Kaitaia carving at the entrance to the Maori Court dates from the 14th to 16th century and is the oldest Maori carving still in existence.

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Kaitaia gateway

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I was fascinated by the Hotunui Preservation Project, a collaboration of museum staff, local experts, and descendants to restore a meeting house built in 1878.

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Entrance to Hotunui Meeting House

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Restoration in progress

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Painted and woven restoration

But by far, for me, the high point of this museum was the Maori Cultural Performance. Lasting about 30 minutes, the performance ended with the haka, the traditional war dance.

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It was an educational day orienting us to the natural and political history of New Zealand. With this background, we felt better prepared for our visit the following day to the Bay of Islands.

As we strolled back to our hotel, we found Solo Kitchen, a Turkish and Mediterranean restaurant, and stopped in for a late lunch/early dinner. The lamb kofta with salad and three dips (sun-dried tomato, cacik, and baba ghanoush) was delicious.

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Solo Kitchen

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And the music added beautifully to an authentic ethnic experience.

 

Come back next week for my post about Bay of Islands.

 

Based on events from February 2017.

 

 

 

 

Categories: New Zealand, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Waitomo Glowworm Caves

The Waitomo Glowworm Caves were at the top of my list of things to see near Auckland. I looked at various tour companies and frankly, the coach tours were considerably more expensive than I thought they’d be. A group day tour to Waitomo and the Hobbiton movie set cost about $250 per person and if we added Rotorua to see the Maori cultural show, we were looking at $300 each. We considered renting a car to drive ourselves but we’ve driven on the left in the UK and Ireland and that didn’t especially appeal to me. With a distance of 193 km (119 mi) each way, we’d spend half the day driving ourselves with the attendant stress. In the end, we decided to eliminate Hobbiton and Rotorua since the reviews of Hobbiton weren’t that good and we could see a Maori cultural show in Auckland. Most companies charged around $180 for the tour to Waitomo alone but I found a no frills deal through InterCity for just $105 per person that I jumped on. When I found out later the entrance tickets to Waitomo were $50, that deal looked even better.

We definitely made the right choice by not driving ourselves. Auckland is in the midst of a transportation crisis caused by a combination of rapid city growth and poor planning. Our bus driver told us 40 years ago politicians refused to implement a comprehensive mass transit plan and the city has been paying the price ever since. Getting out of Auckland was extremely slow with frequent stops on the Southern Motorway. The only thing worse was the traffic into the city which was backed up for more than 30 miles.

A rainy day was perfect for a drive and cave tour since we wouldn’t be outside in the elements for either. My photos from the bus suffered a bit from the rain but the countryside was beautiful nonetheless.

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Rainy countryside

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Countryside outside Auckland

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New Zealand countryside

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Countryside outside Auckland

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Pastoral scene in New Zealand

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North Island, New Zealand

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Near Waitomo, New Zealand

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Drive near Waitomo, New Zealand

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Scene from the bus on North Island

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Flax growing next to the roadway in New Zealand

According to our tour guide, Waitomo Glowworm Caves were discovered by the local Maori Chief, Tanetinorau, on his own land and explored by him and a surveyor, Fred Mace, in 1887 on a raft made of flax stalks. Two years later the caves opened for tours led by local Maori guides but in 1904 the government took over the administration. They were finally returned to the family of Tanetinorau in 1989.

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Entrance to Waitomo Glowworm Caves with flax growing in the foreground

The glowworm, Arachnocampa luminosa, is unique to New Zealand. They are actually the larvae of a fungus gnat whose bioluminescence attracts insects. The glowworms produce a long sticky thread which hangs from the roof of the cave and ensnares passing insects, thus providing a meal for the glowworm.

The 45-minute guided tour through the cave included views of stalactites, stalagmites, glowworms, and ended with a boat-ride through the Glowworm Grotto.

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Walking to the entrance of the caves

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Entrance to the caves

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Disembarking from the boats through Glowworm Grotto

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Selfie after our boat ride

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Photography isn’t allowed inside the caves so I found this National Geographic YouTube video for your enjoyment.

We also bought the photos taken at the caves. Although they are just our photo superimposed over a background picture, they remind us of the amazing sights we enjoyed at Waitomo.

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Inside the entrance

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Sticky threads to catch a meal

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Surrounded by glowworms

This was definitely a heavily visited tourist attraction, but nevertheless, we are glad we went. The glowworms are a unique natural attraction in New Zealand and as such, should not be missed.

 

Based on events from February 2017.

Categories: New Zealand, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Nau mai ki Tāmaki (Welcome to Auckland)

When I first began planning our trip to New Zealand, I wanted to arrive several weeks before our cruise to have enough time to properly see both the North Island and South Island. After I studied the cost and the transportation challenges, however, we scaled back our plans considerably. After 3 days transit from the U.S., a 19-day cruise, 2 extra days in Singapore, and the trip home, our trip already totaled 25 days. Our cruise departed from Auckland and included another stop in New Zealand at the Bay of Islands. We decided to focus on the area around Auckland for three days and return to New Zealand in the future to see the South Island.

With too many sights to possibly see everything in three days before our cruise departure, we had to prioritize. We definitely wanted to learn about the Maori culture and see the glowworm caves that are unique to New Zealand. We also wanted to learn more about the history of New Zealand and see a little of the countryside. After we booked our flights, our cruise itinerary changed eliminating Bay of Islands which we were keen to see. We were informed our ship, the Norwegian Star would instead spend the night in Auckland which would allow us time for a bus tour to Bay of Islands.

Our planned itinerary prior to the ship’s departure was:   Day 1: Check into our hotel around 5 pm and explore our neighborhood. Day 2: Bus tour to Waitomo Glowworm Caves. Day 3: See as much as possible around the city of Auckland. Day 4: (Added due to cruise itinerary change) Bus tour to Bay of Islands.

As it turned out, on our return trip from Waitomo, we were informed by email the cruise itinerary changed again to restore Bay of Islands. We were fortunate our scheduled bus tour allowed us to cancel the tour AND refunded our money.

I booked the Quality Inn Parnell for 3 nights in Auckland which looked adequate for our needs. The neighborhood of Parnell was a little further from downtown and the cruise port at Queen’s Wharf but the price was right at $165 per night. We were pleased to discover we had a suite with a living room/kitchen combination and a separate bedroom. Since none of the hotels I looked at in Auckland included breakfast, the kitchen facilities came in handy–especially the French press for coffee. Admittedly, I put the coffee on top rather than below the plunger the first time which was a real mess but now I’m an expert at French press coffee.

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Parnell is outlined in red and the yellow star marks our hotel

Parnell is the oldest suburb in Auckland dating from early European settlement beginning in 1841. We were charmed by the 19th-century architecture which gave a historic feel to the neighborhood.

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The original Anglican St. Mary’s Cathedral was built in 1886 but it was replaced by Holy Trinity Cathedral, the modern structure below, in 1973. St. Mary’s was subsequently moved across Parnell Road to occupy the space next to Holy Trinity in 1982.

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Holy Trinity Cathedral

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Mountain Fountain, sculpture at Holy Trinity

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Interior of Holy Trinity Cathedral

A short walk from our hotel, we found plenty of shops and restaurants.

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Parnell Road

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Shops and restaurants on Parnell Rd

With lots of ethnic foods to choose from, we decided to try Thai Friends our first night. It was excellent and although we shared two dishes, we had more than enough to fill us up.

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Jim enjoying outside dining at Thai Friends

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Tom Yum Goong (Hot and spicy prawn soup with fresh herbs, mushroom, and coriander)

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Hot green curry with eggplant, broccoli, bamboo shoots, and peas

After dinner, we strolled back to our hotel for an early night. After two full days of travel, we wanted to get a good night’s sleep before our bus tour to Waitomo Glowworm Caves the next morning. Stop back next week and check it out.

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Based on events from February 2017.

 

Categories: cruise, New Zealand, Uncategorized | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

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